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Thread: 1955 S1 rebuild

  1. #81
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    Engine update

    Groucha back then I use to complain about the drive to Alspares but use to go with my father and pick up all those much needed LR parts it was great, what a pity its gone.

    Well after some serious thinking and talking with others I decided to manipulate the top of the engine between 1/2 where I had slipped with the hammer.

    I think and hope the results speak for themselves, Im pretty rapped with the end result. what i did was to get a drill and attach a sanding disc and carefully sanded the face to grind away the indent and it worked a treat.

    Im no expert but hope this will work might not be 100% accurate or level but willing to give it a go. compare the pic to previous post with damage.

    Now whats the best way to clean out the bores - not looking at getting it done professionally but at home. can i use sandpaper fine grade or not. if not what else can i use to clean the inner bores out to a fine clean finish. suggestions please
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  2. #82
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    ..............
    Now whats the best way to clean out the bores - not looking at getting it done professionally but at home. can i use sandpaper fine grade or not. if not what else can i use to clean the inner bores out to a fine clean finish. suggestions please
    The proper thing to use is a honing tool. You should be able to get one from any good tool shop I would think.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #83
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    No

    No, no,no. It will not work. If you persist you are wasting your money.
    If this mark was only a very small take the block to someone that can plane it level again. This might work if they only need to take off a small amount.
    The top of the block needs to be perfectly level or the head gasket will never seal, remember there is a lot of pressure and heat involved.
    Have you measured the bore yet to see if new rings will work?
    A hone is used to cleanup and resurface the bore.
    If planning, 60" oversize boring plus pistons and rings maybe look for a block in better condition.
    I have rebuilt a number of 2l and 1600 engines, more than happy to talk to you about this problem give me a call 0418502430.
    Dennis

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post

    I think and hope the results speak for themselves, Im pretty rapped with the end result. what i did was to get a drill and attach a sanding disc and carefully sanded the face to grind away the indent and it worked a treat.

    Im no expert but hope this will work might not be 100% accurate or level but willing to give it a go. compare the pic to previous post with damage.
    Well if you want it to drive like a piece of **** just keep treating it like one...
    Last edited by Numpty's Missus; 13th December 2009 at 12:48 PM.

  5. #85
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    I wasn't going to post a reply after seeing that you attacked the block with a sanding disc. A general rule is with straight edge across the block is 3 thou
    deck flatness. Thats why they do it in the re con shop with a propper milling machine.You are not going to bend the head to take up the contour.
    In the previous pics the marks from belting out the piston, and the rust ring
    where the piston sat, at 40 thou you will not have mutch chance of saving the block without some serious dollars at the machine shop. Sorry that's the way i see it. Others may disagree. If you feel like to Keep going don't winge later when it gives problems........ And it will.... Remember it's not a leggo set
    I gouldn't put it any nicer than that. Sorry.Mark

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamirj View Post
    what i did was to get a drill and attach a sanding disc and carefully sanded the face to grind away the indent and it worked a treat...
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  7. #87
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    back on track

    Ok lets get back to work on this rebuild. all points taken.

    2 pics - questions

    1st pic - had my gearbox overdrive removed and bought a replacement cog. not sure which way this cog goes on, pls refer to pic and orientation and confirm whether the right way round or need to spin it 180 degrees.

    2nd pic - removed front and rear shafts (prop and tail) for a clean up, are they both the same size and interchangeable and again is the orientation the right way with the shorter tail at g'box end or should i rotate 180 degrees so that shorter end is facing towards the rear diff. cheers not sure if this is the front or rear shaft ?

    engine is on hold for now ...
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  8. #88
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    Information.

    Please do not take this the wrong way but to help you I need to know if you just have no mechanical ability at all or are you just having a lend of us all?
    If you are for real please use the phone number I have already supplied and lets have a talk about where you are going with this restore and what books and information you desperately need.
    Dennis

  9. #89
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    Hi! It's been great following your restoration, you seem to be putting a lot of time into it. It's wonderful seeing another landy being given another lease of life. So by all means follow the suggestion from Dennis and give him a call, we all need a little guidance from time to time. I know!!
    These old machines may not be "high performance", but they still require alot of precision in the repair and restoration, particually the motor and transmission. Any shortcuts will definetly bite you in the bum later down the track. Anyway good luck!
    Cheers

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