Thread: Steering issues.

ok got some good news.....i fixed it.

My relay unit is ok i checked the preload its approx 12 to 14 lbs.
and the oil soaked in the bushes too.

2 problems causing the stiff steering ended up being the Swivels and the Main Steering box.

i undone the all the steering linkage arms to check the pre load on the swivels
and both side measured approx 20lbs...........
so i add 0.50" shims tightened the 4 nuts on the arms and re checked the pre load with my sping weight thingy and got a reading between 12 to 14lbs on both sides.

next was the main steering column unit which is new ex army 2a unit. And these are known as Recirculating Ball Steering Boxes. they are adjustable on the lower right side there is a lock nut and a inner bolt, i loosened the locknut and undone the bolt until the stiffness freed up while moving the steering wheel left and right. i did this while all the steering rods were disconnected.

i also replaced my Tie Rod Boots as some of them had cracked and was a good chance to change them while i had the linkage rods disconnected.
ok so everything is re assembled and now the steering turns a treat.

now as soon as i finish the brakes, im out for another test drive......!

Does anyone know how to set the Toe in & Toe out....? i found this website the person made their own tool to measure from a piece of angle screwed to a block of wood one for each side that goes on the side of the tyre. it has slots for the measuring tape to go through. heres the web link http://www.hillmanimages.com/912/adj_toein.html im gona try it.

cheers,

Chris

Checking toe-in is really very easy you don't need a tape, just a ruler. I actually did it recently on the 110, procedure is just the same. The only apparatus you need is some sort of a rigid crossbar with two point about half the tyre diameter long. I used a bit of "loxangle" with two other short bits bolted to it. It helps if one side is adjustable, but the whole setup needs to be rigid enough to keep its measurement while you move it between front and back.

Jack up each front wheel and spin the wheel against a sharp bit of chalk (or just a sharp point) to give a line to measure against (this removes any effect of bent wheels, out of shape tyres etc). Make sure the wheels are in exactly straight ahead by sighting along the outside of the front tyre each side and ensuring it lines up the same relative to the rear tyre. Set the pointers to match the tyre marks at the front, then move the pointers to the back and the difference from the mark when the other side is on the mark will be the toe in/out. Adjust as necessary and recheck twice, making sure you are certain whether what you are measuring is toe in or out.

Note that it is not worth even trying to adjust toe in if there is any free play on the tierod ends of the track rod or the swivels or the wheel bearings. Also, if you don't have the wheels straight ahead the results will be wrong.

John