Stick some coolant in it. Anything with an inhibitor to prevent the dissimilar metals from setting up electrolysis and eating your alloy bits
My engine is the 2 litre the car was built with (1955) which has been rebored and rebuilt. I am fitting a new water pump as the old one is shot. Back in the 1950's in England you put ethylene glycol antifreeze in for winter and then replaced it with plain water in the spring. Which I imagine is one of the reasons why the block and radiator has accessible drain cocks.
Should I be just using water? Rainwater is slightly acid of course. Would I be better using a modern coolant? Anybody got any advice or experience? The car won't be run every day, just occasionally, but I expect to do a bit of work on the property like hauling logs.
Cheers, Paul
 TopicToaster
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						Stick some coolant in it. Anything with an inhibitor to prevent the dissimilar metals from setting up electrolysis and eating your alloy bits
I would use a 20:1 mix, this being quite a reasonable ratio
For your climate the specified coolant was soft water. Rainwater is quite suitable.
However, coolant will reduce corrosion and probably has no downsides.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks for posting this question - and thanks for the learned replies - I was about to ask the same for mine!
So is a pure coolant OK, or do I (we) need to mix a ratio such as Grockle's suggested 20:1?
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
1993 BMW R100LT
2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black
Depends what you buy Dan, concentrate or pre-mix. I use concentrate and I think I mixed it at 3 or 4 to 1. This is a complete treatment ie coolant and inhibitors. To my mind 20 to 1 would be about as good as the old school soluble oil, good in its day, but there are better products around.
Numpty
Thomas - 1955 Series 1 107" Truck Cab
Leon - 1957 Series 1 88" Soft Top
Lewis - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil Gunbuggy
Teddy5 - 2001 Ex Telstra Big Cab Td5
Betsy - 1963 Series 11A ex Mil GS
REMLR No 143
If the temperature where you are doesn't drop below zero then you could just add a corrosion inhibitor. Small bottles of concentrate are available from most auto shops, KMart etc.
I have 'anti-freeze' in my Defender & Series 1 but It's not needed unless I head up to the High Country in winter. My Series 2 (parts car, but still regularly run) has just corrosion inhibitor.
Have always used the concentrated anti-freeze, less bulky to purchase and you don't end up paying a high price for water. Just check the system capacity to work out how much is needed. Most I've used suggest minimum 33% anti-freeze although this is more to control the temperature at which the mixture will freeze.
The other trick in the UK was to just run water all year. At night, in the cold weather, drain the water from the radiator & block. In the morning fill the system with warm/hot water. You just had to remember to shut the drain taps once the water had stopped flowing, otherwise if there was some left in the tap it froze overnight and you couldn't shut the tap in the morning !
It meant getting up a little earlier (we had more time on our hands in the old days) but I knew people who did this, then they stopped fitting drain taps to radiators & blocks.......
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						All good advice!
Check out this link to see what happens inside the block and head if you don't use corrosion inhibitor of some description,
Trans Tasman Land Rover Series 1 Register Forum • View topic - Sixpence
Cheers Charlie
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