Thread: Repairing rust on galvanised tub parts

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

Learning from someone else's experience:
Only because I had some left decanted, I painted Penetrol on some of the marred gal cappings. It gives it a permanent wet look, which is probably ok in Tasmania, but I don't recommend it for those in drier climes.

Thanks - this is the sort of feedback I am looking for.

Originally Posted by drifter

Sure, Neil

If I decide to paint them black then I will go with:

wire brush the rust off
Wattyl Killrust Fishoilene
Wattyl Killrust Etch Primer
Wattyl Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel

I have used them on several projects - they flow on beautifully, require very little re-sanding and just look great.

I buy them in pressurised cans - but you can get the brush-on versions, too.

I don't know if you can get them on Norfolk but, if you can, try them out - pure magic.

Thanks
I've been using the Wattyl 3 part series on my rebuild, so I'm heading in right direction anyway
As you say there "pure magic"
I haven't used the fishoilene But have been using part one -Rust Kill then part Two the Etch Primer and top off with part Three the Epoxy Enamel.
So far so good!

Originally Posted by Lostkiwi

Thanks
I've been using the Wattyl 3 part series on my rebuild, so I'm heading in right direction anyway
As you say there "pure magic"
I haven't used the fishoilene But have been using part one -Rust Kill then part Two the Etch Primer and top off with part Three the Epoxy Enamel.
So far so good!

What colour Epoxy Enamel are you using? I tried their Greens but they weren't what I was looking for - so I emailed them for a colour chart - and they still didn't have anything close to what I wanted. I then went back to using the primer and have been spraying a topcoat on that - sticks well. Make sure you don't have any epoxy enamel on if you use a different top coat - it bubbles. Don't ask me how I know

As for Part 1 - I went down to the shops about an hour ago and discovered that they also do Cold Galvit for the part 1 of the series.

I have sprayed some on and will let you know how it turns out.

Originally Posted by drifter

What colour Epoxy Enamel are you using? I tried their Greens but they weren't what I was looking for - so I emailed them for a colour chart - and they still didn't have anything close to what I wanted. I then went back to using the primer and have been spraying a topcoat on that - sticks well. Make sure you don't have any epoxy enamel on if you use a different top coat - it bubbles. Don't ask me how I know

As for Part 1 - I went down to the shops about an hour ago and discovered that they also do Cold Galvit for the part 1 of the series.

I have sprayed some on and will let you know how it turns out.

So far Ive just being using the gloss Enamel Black [still painting the chassis]
And yes I have found out that it does bubble if you use a different product
Its pretty limited on what colours i can get Black,Green,Blue,Grey,Red oh and Yellow for something different
What i have been doing is Wire brushing the larger parts with an angle Grinder The smaller ones are getting sand blasted!
With the larger ones First coat is with the Kill Rust then Etch Primer and finally the Enamel over the top The smaller ones just a primer then top coat.
It's going to be interesting to see how long it last over here!!! As every time the wind blows everything gets a good coating of salt spray!!
I might have to try and talk the local hardware shop into up dating there products HA HA!!
Anyhow I will be interested to see how the Cold Galvit spray goes
Let us Know thanks

so - 2 months later and I am just getting back to this...

The spray-on ColdGalvit isn't special - but it will do for now. If I muck around much longer nothing will get done and painting season is upon us again (warmer weather) for a week or two.

If you are going to paint the cappings the stuff which I've found to give the closest approximation to galvanising is KBS rustseal galvanised steel,
Its a moisure cure urethane, it drys to a hard finish very quickly looks very like galvanising but is perhaps a bit glossy, you can overcome this by cutting it back with wet and dry . Only drawback I've found is if you change your mind and decide to galvanise its very difficult to get off. POR-15 seems to be an identical product but its a bit more expensive.

Two issues.

Galvanising
If you decide to have the parts re-galvanised, make sure that you completely remove all traces of the original galvanising and particularly any paint. You can do this by sand blasting or by paint stripping off the paint and soaking the part/s in a molasses bath (between 10:1 to 4:1 water: molasses depending how quickly you want it de-rusted and stripped. Be careful a molasses bath will dissolve all white metals like aluminium or zinc.

• Check examples of their work before handing your parts to them.
• Best to do it in warm weather not cold as the zinc crystallizes to quickly in winter.
• Don't have it done first thing on a Monday as the bath may still be too cold, best at end of the day on a Wednesday or Thursday (Friday they may be too rushed to do a good job). So deliver it to them middle of a Monday if poss.
• Take the parts to the galvaniser as soon as possible after coming out of a molasses bath as the surface rust will appear within hours.
• Have the galvaniser skim the slag off the bath before dipping.
• Have the galvaniser centrifuge (spin) your parts when they come out of the bath. If they wont centrifuge find another galvaniser.
• Re-galvanising can embrittle the part.

Painting
A mix of wheel silver and silvafrost applied with an artists brush will give a reasonable match to the original gal.

Diana

Thanks Diana

We don't have the luxury of choice of galvanisers here in Canberra.