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Thread: S2 Gearbox overhaul

  1. #1
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    S2 Gearbox overhaul

    I have Basil's 51 year old gearbox out....does anyone know of a gearbox guru in the southern area of Sydney that may know a bit about giving it an overhaul. Spoke to LV Spares but thought there may be somewhere closer. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Mick

    Do it yourself, those boxes are quite easy if you follow the OEM manual. Just remember that a number of the gears are in pairs*, so have to be replaced as such.

    A lot of parts are mix and matchable with the parts from later boxes.

    What you probably will find is that you have the wide 3rd gear set, which requires the bronze bush with the narrow shoulder, otherwise you have to change to the late wider type that has the narrow 3rd gear pair.

    The things you need to be aware of are the needle roller bearing at the front of the mainshaft; the locator pegs on the 2nd/3rd bronze bush, the bush broken, the end float on the same bush; a broken layshaft circlip; wear in any part of the 3rd/4th synchro mechanism.

    Your pre-removal symptoms should give you an idea.

    Always replace the layshaft bearing. Check the reverse idler bushes.

    Diana



    * Primary pinion and layshaft constant gear
    3rd gear set
    2nd gear set

    ADDIT: Woops - I read that you were doing a 1951 gearbox not a 51 year old - sorry. forget the stuff about narrow bush. If it's not already a Suffix D or Suffix G/H box (the same really) you should retrofit it to suffix D. They are the boxes with the large layshaft front bearing and the shoulder retaining 2nd layshaft gear. All the rest is the same.
    Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 3rd August 2010 at 06:23 PM. Reason: Addit: Woops

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  3. #3
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    i agree about doing it yourself.quite easy and a hell of a lot cheaper there is bugger all difference really from s1-s3 plus you will learn as you go which is always good

  4. #4
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    DIY, you dont even really need any specialist tools to make it work.
    Dave

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton View Post
    i agree about doing it yourself.quite easy and a hell of a lot cheaper there is bugger all difference really from s1-s3 plus you will learn as you go which is always good
    I do think SIII boxes are a little more difficult with their 1st second synchro cluster. More expensive parts also. esp. layshaft!

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  6. #6
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    2nd/3rd bush

    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Mick

    Do it yourself, those boxes are quite easy if you follow the OEM manual. Just remember that a number of the gears are in pairs*, so have to be replaced as such.

    A lot of parts are mix and matchable with the parts from later boxes.

    What you probably will find is that you have the wide 3rd gear set, which requires the bronze bush with the narrow shoulder, otherwise you have to change to the late wider type that has the narrow 3rd gear pair.

    The things you need to be aware of are the needle roller bearing at the front of the mainshaft; the locator pegs on the 2nd/3rd bronze bush, the bush broken, the end float on the same bush; a broken layshaft circlip; wear in any part of the 3rd/4th synchro mechanism.

    Your pre-removal symptoms should give you an idea.

    Always replace the layshaft bearing. Check the reverse idler bushes.

    Diana



    * Primary pinion and layshaft constant gear
    3rd gear set
    2nd gear set

    ADDIT: Woops - I read that you were doing a 1951 gearbox not a 51 year old - sorry. forget the stuff about narrow bush. If it's not already a Suffix D or Suffix G/H box (the same really) you should retrofit it to suffix D. They are the boxes with the large layshaft front bearing and the shoulder retaining 2nd layshaft gear. All the rest is the same.
    I always use the 2 piece bush when doing a series gearbox and use loctite retaining compund (green) when assembling shaft. Have never had a problem after doing this! Just make sure the bush is ground square and to the correct tolerances as in the manual, I cant stress this enough!

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