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Thread: Time for a Re-fit

  1. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnno1969 View Post
    ---- Righto, back to that door top.
    Or maybe I will just muck around with the galv bits and some fittings.
    Stupid door.
    Because that bolt is boxed inside the frame the only way to work on it is to come in from the end.

    1. Use a hammer onto a piece of copper or brass to tap the threaded end , the end of the thread must be protected while hitting it, with the nut level with the end of the thread.

    2. That direction is only one way, so add a bar with a hole in it and tighten the nut down tight onto it and give the bar a couple of whacks in the direction the the nut is pulling.

    3. Take the bar off and repeat 1. and then back to 2.

    Keep doing this, it will break the bind eventually.

    Plenty of diesel squirted along side the bolt while doing this wont hurt either.
    .

  2. #342
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    Thanks Arthur.

    I used a bit of softwood to cushion the blows against the end of the bolt and the thread..... but (maybe because of the heat...actually I am sure it was the heat) the thread tightened significantly on the nut and, well, the thread is a bit, er, buggered now. It's a bit annoying, after spending so many months seeping WD40 into it. I would have preferred to soak it in diesel all that time, but don't have a vessel large enough to manoeuvre it into.

    I have put it into the too-hard basket for the moment.

    Cheers,

    John

  3. #343
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    Interesting. That "knock" is back. While the engine did certainly seem to be having an oiling problem with number one cylinder, I think I may be on the way to finding another underlying reason. I ran it this afternoon, and loosened the fuel line to number one injector: the knock stopped. I'm going to check out that injector when I get some more time to spend on the vehicle.

  4. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnno1969 View Post
    Thanks Arthur.

    I used a bit of softwood to cushion the blows against the end of the bolt and the thread..... but (maybe because of the heat...actually I am sure it was the heat) the thread tightened significantly on the nut and, well, the thread is a bit, er, buggered now. It's a bit annoying, after spending so many months seeping WD40 into it. I would have preferred to soak it in diesel all that time, but don't have a vessel large enough to manoeuvre it into.

    I have put it into the too-hard basket for the moment.
    Hi John

    Find yourself some hat felt, soak it in diesel then wrap around the protruding part and leave it for a while.

    Just wet it occasionally to keep it moist and it will work through in time ------ I hope!
    .

  5. #345
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    Thanks Arthur - I'll do just that.

    John

  6. #346
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    Though it is becoming tempting to cut the blasted thing and drive it out, then weld a new bolt to the door top.....

  7. #347
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    Can you split the nut and get rid of it that way
    Cheers Will

  8. #348
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    Thanks Will. Nope, unfortunately. The bolt itself is seized to the tube through which it attaches to the door bottom. Removing the nut's not the issue - the bolt is just very stubborn.

    Cheers,

    John

  9. #349
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    Busy but slow day.

    Picked up various fittings from the sandblaster man (took them there because I was sick of grinders and wire brushes). It seems that Sandblaster Man had the sandblaster turned up to eleven, because it ripped a lot of the surface away - which pretty-much finalised my to-paint-or-not-to-paint question.

    Here are the bits before and after gold galv painting and finishing with hammer-finish.

    John
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #350
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    I also experimented with the injectors a bit and worked out that the ignition "knock" was definitely caused by the injector on number one. I'll take it back to the injector man who overhauled it.

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