Thread: Time for a Re-fit

Hmm, sadly the bottom ones are the ones that are actually undoing though i have yet to take a hinge off fully so i may have to crack open the grinder, but once i have the old ones off, is there some way of getting new ones in? i assume there must be a hole hidden under the hinge itself? otherwise i may be reduced to a gibbering heap in a corner... probably swearing lol.

oh and i agree that anti-seize paste sounds a damn good tip, i shall have to get some as i don't plan on having this issue again in the future!

Agree with the anti seize on the new screws
I had to use an impact driver to get them out
They can be a real PITA
Phil

Originally Posted by 450Dan

Hmm, sadly the bottom ones are the ones that are actually undoing though i have yet to take a hinge off fully so i may have to crack open the grinder, but once i have the old ones off, is there some way of getting new ones in? i assume there must be a hole hidden under the hinge itself? otherwise i may be reduced to a gibbering heap in a corner... probably swearing lol.

oh and i agree that anti-seize paste sounds a damn good tip, i shall have to get some as i don't plan on having this issue again in the future!

Get ready to do some gibbering, Dan. I might be missing something, but I am blowed if I can see how anybody could get new captive nuts in place without cutting into the bulkhead.

Originally Posted by Phil B

Agree with the anti seize on the new screws
I had to use an impact driver to get them out
They can be a real PITA
Phil

Yeah, I have grown obsessed with nickel anti-seize paste. I should have bought shares in the stuff (and Penetrol) in 2010.

Originally Posted by Johnno1969

Get ready to do some gibbering, Dan. I might be missing something, but I am blowed if I can see how anybody could get new captive nuts in place without cutting into the bulkhead.

You have to be in a very good mood, any frustration or tiredness at all when you do them will result in things being broken, tools thrown across the workshop and lots of blue air.
I found that a pair of long nose pliers to clip them in and a small screwdriver or a loop of wire through the screw hole to stop them falling into the hole helped. RPITA job though.
Good luck!!

Phil.

Not the great bounding leaps of progress which I was hoping for this weekend - but a little progress nonetheless.

I got the hand throttle (and the mounting plate on the bulkhead) installed, and sorted out the air vents. The air vent rubbers are some nice tubular rubber with sticky backing (I bought a handful of metres of it last weekend). I fitted them to the lids, rather than to the bulkhead, and they seem to fit pretty snugly when the vents are closed.


Cheers,

John

Next stop was the tailgate and various bits of hardware around the rear of the chassis and tub, as well as the number plate lamp. The tailgate does not fit as well as I would like, as it has suffered a fair bit of distortion in the past. Hopefully I can get it sorted, but it is not possible to twist it the way I need to to recover the original fit without ruining a lot of paint and taking off the galv capping. I'll see how it goes when the roof and top tailgate are on.

I never thought of fitting the vent rubbers to the flap itself but it's not a bad suggestion. My rubbers were very very tight, but I will concede the more I open and close the vents they are fitting and sealing better and better but what you have done is probably the way to go so long as they're lined up properly

Where did you get the step things on the back, or were they already on there? I'm in two minds as to whether or not I fit them on mine but it's nice that the option is there - it beats climbing up on the tyre or slipping off the tow ball when climbing in the back