Thread: Re-wiring 2a issues

Originally Posted by korg20000bc

Thanks, men.

So once an alternator with internal regulator is installed the wiring will more resemble a series3 vehicle than a series2a?

Is that the main difference between the wiring for series 2a and 3?

That part of the wiring probably does. I must admit I haven't looked at a Series 3 diagram.

I should probably go look as I'll be doing something similar myself.

I have rewired mine the 'hard' way - all wires are in except for the engine ones and I was going to do them once I had an engine ready to install.

G'day Korg20000bc

The external regulator that you have on your firewall is a Bosch RE-55 type these were the regs fitted to early 64-69 Holdens and Falcons which had Bosch unregulated alternators,35-40amp units,which had 3 wires coming from the rear of them,the later and much more common Bosch alternator with in built brush/regulator unit (little black box on the back held by 2 screws)only has 2 wires exiting the rear,I have forgotten which is the redundant one,I gather you still have the alternator that came with the vehicle,it would probably be an early Bosch 35amp unit,EH-HR Holden

BTW. the Bosch alternator is a lot easier to get parts for outside the capitol cities than a Lucas unit, and cheaper too.


hope that is of help

If it didn't help him, it has certainly helped me. Thanks Unca Ho

Originally Posted by korg20000bc

Thanks, men.

So once an alternator with internal regulator is installed the wiring will more resemble a series3 vehicle than a series2a?

Is that the main difference between the wiring for series 2a and 3?

No. That is a difference, but the main difference is the length of a lot of the wires, due to the move of the instrument panel from the centre to in front of the driver. A further major difference is the combination stalk on the steering column which includes the headlight dip switch - this quite different location makes major changes to the wiring. Also the Series 3 has twice as many fuses as the 2a, and the blinkers are standard, not an afterthought.

The wiring changes required to fit an alternator instead of a generator are quite minor, compared to these differences.

But overall, the circuit diagrams are quite similar, hardly surprising, considering that the vehicles are quite similar.

John

Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Korg20000bc

The external regulator that you have on your firewall is a Bosch RE-55 type these were the regs fitted to early 64-69 Holdens and Falcons which had Bosch unregulated alternators,35-40amp units,which had 3 wires coming from the rear of them,the later and much more common Bosch alternator with in built brush/regulator unit (little black box on the back held by 2 screws)only has 2 wires exiting the rear,I have forgotten which is the redundant one,I gather you still have the alternator that came with the vehicle,it would probably be an early Bosch 35amp unit,EH-HR Holden

BTW. the Bosch alternator is a lot easier to get parts for outside the capitol cities than a Lucas unit, and cheaper too.


hope that is of help

Sure does help. I do still have the un-reg alternator on the vehicle and the external regulator. the truth is that I stuffed up and ordered the loom for an alternator with internal reg. I'd be happy to keep the set up I got if I can nut out how to wire it up. For some reason my brain doesn't seem to handle it to easily. Nothing seems straight forward. Its like that bloke in The Castle trying to work his photocopier...

That pic of the relay I put up before- do you reckon its the cold start switch? Also, where is the connection for the cold start switch in the cylinder head?

Jeez I feel stupid

Just found this:


I think that answers the set-up question, unless anyone can see a problem with it.

G'day Drifter

I have a 2a which had a 35amp Holden Bosch alternator non regulated, with the RE-55 external unit, which I replaced with a 55amp internal reg unit from a Datsan 200B and we had to drop one of the wires from the rear,I have found that outside capitol cities Lucas alternator parts and knowledge to repair them is scarce, but with Bosch every auto elecie could fix them and the brush/reg packs were standard stock lines ,up to the electronic/fuel injected, ignitioned vehicle then it got a little complicated, as the wiring from them differed.

Point of interest, when travelling to Cooma in 2008, the other 110's Bosch universal reg died at 3am easter thursday near Goulburn, and he got a replacement brush/reg pack at 8.30am it town and back on the road at 9.00am that's why most people change to Bosch units, parts availabilty.


cheers

I suspect that the 12v supply from the ignition switch should go through the charge warning (ignition) light - as you show will work, but you will have no charge light. The lead from the battery to the alternator needs to be substantial.

John