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Thread: RPM

  1. #1
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    RPM

    What is the maximum RPM I should be able to achieve on the flat from a 2.25 petrol motor?

    Thanks, Peter

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    This will depend on tyre size and any non-standard gearing, as well as type of body. Maximum rpm is 4150 from memory, but you will not normally be able to reach this on the level in fourth gear. Expect 3500+ though, for a speed in excess of 60mph, probably in excess of 65mph.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Maximum rpm is 4150 from memory, but you will not normally be able to reach this on the level in fourth gear. Expect 3500+ though, for a speed in excess of 60mph, probably in excess of 65mph.
    Thanks John.

    I'm getting about 2800 rpm with the pedal to the floor, giving 80kph flat out. The motor has an ex-Holden Stromborg fitted, and the linkages are fully opening the throttle. I'm wondering if the Stromborg is jetted correctly. Probably not.

    I'm looking for a Zenith 36IV, fitting that may fix the problem.

    Peter

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Could be the carburetter, but before changing it I would check ignition timing, and just as a precaution, fit new high tension leads and spark plugs.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    You should do better than that with a holden carby on a 2. series motor. AS JD says check plug points timing ect. Has it got an adjustable main jet ?
    Check whitch type of carby it is. On the butterfly body you will find the ventury size.
    BXOV1 for grey motors 1 1/32
    BXV2 186's. 1.094
    There should be the model engine stamped on the float chamber also.....

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    Thanks John and Groucho.

    John, it's unlikely to be electrics, as the motor has just been rebuilt and I have replaced every electrical item on the vehicle - including plugs, leads, distributor, electronic ignition, coil . . .

    It's possible the timing has crept off, so it would be worth checking.

    Groucho, the carby is a BXOV1 off a grey motor. Thar's what came with the vehicle when I bought it, but as it was never running on the road I don't know how well it ran previously.

    I see there are a couple of other threads on here where a Stromberg has had similar problems.

    If the timing is still ok, I'll look seriously at a Zenith.

    Peter

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    You say the engine was rebuilt. Is it possible that the timing chain was fitted one tooth retarded? If it is, the engine will idle beautifully and run well, but not produce a lot of power and won't rev out/

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vnx205 View Post
    You say the engine was rebuilt. Is it possible that the timing chain was fitted one tooth retarded? If it is, the engine will idle beautifully and run well, but not produce a lot of power and won't rev out/
    How would you go about checking this out?

    Peter

  9. #9
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    Sorry, I don't know how to check without dismantling the front of the engine and checking the timing marks on the sprockets.

    When I assembled mine incorrectly, about a quarter of a century ago, I realised immediately what I had done as soon as I drove it, so I just pulled the timing cover off and reassembled it a bit more carefully.

    Someone else will surely be able to tell you how to check it, if it can be done.
    Last edited by vnx205; 31st October 2010 at 03:16 PM. Reason: Typo

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peterg1001 View Post
    How would you go about checking this out?

    Peter
    On early engines it is the same as for S1 and involves using a dial indicator to check when No.1 exhaust valve is fully open and then checking that the EP mark on the flywheel is lined up with a pointer. If it is not, the timing wheel (sprocket) and chain needs to be removed and the wheel tried in a different position until the flywheel mark and the exhaust peak correlate and the timing chain is tight on the drive side of the sprockets.

    On later engines timing marks are provided on the timing wheels and the timing pointer is on the timing cover - the same principle applies but there is no need for a dial indicator.

    In both cases a workshop manual is essential rather than my crappy description

    Cheers Charlie

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