Thread: The mushroom bit on the top

The breather mesh is not just oily from the crankcase fumes either. You must oil the internal mesh for the filter to be effective in filtering out dust and dirt particles. I'll assume the engine has positive crankcase ventilation (a separate pipe running from the tappet cover to the engine intake, including PCV valve) which means that the mushroom you're talking about is an intake.

It is actually a good idea from time to time to remove the breather cap, wash it in kerosene (or similar), dry it out, and oil it, before replacing on the car. make sure you cover the hole in the timing cover with a rag or something, to stop insects etc. from crawling in and nesting

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by Mudpiggy

The breather mesh is not just oily from the crankcase fumes either. You must oil the internal mesh for the filter to be effective in filtering out dust and dirt particles. I'll assume the engine has positive crankcase ventilation (a separate pipe running from the tappet cover to the engine intake, including PCV valve) which means that the mushroom you're talking about is an intake.

It is actually a good idea from time to time to remove the breather cap, wash it in kerosene (or similar), dry it out, and oil it, before replacing on the car. make sure you cover the hole in the timing cover with a rag or something, to stop insects etc. from crawling in and nesting

Hope this helps.

What's all this PCV valve stuff - you are getting too advanced for an old landie Series IIs and IIAs just had 2 open breathers, Which I think is the type DB/Lou has???

It will oil itself fast enough in use. Oiling it will actually decrease its capture efficiency for small oil droplets/dust particles.

It usually takes a bit of cleaning (i.e. strong degreaser) - but make sure all degreaser is properly cleaned out after as it is caustic.

to make it more effective carefully pry it apart and stuff it with Steel wire wool then put it back together.

dont forget to replace the O ring that seals it to the rocker cover and the lock screw will work loose so a drop of loctite 243 never goes astray.

some people like to replace it with the one from a series III and add the fitting to allow it to breath into the air intake. IMHO not a bad idea as it helps flow air through the sump preventing the accumulation of hydrocarbons that over time turns the oil acidic. If you do this I strongly suggest fitting a fuel filter in the breather line so that you can watch the oil production which gives you a good indication of the quality of the oil and your blowby.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

What's all this PCV valve stuff - you are getting too advanced for an old landie Series IIs and IIAs just had 2 open breathers, Which I think is the type DB/Lou has???
........

From the introduction of the 2.25 engine up to the end of Series 2a production, the crankcase breather system comprised a breather on top of the rocker case and another one on the oil filler. Bother were small oiled wire air cleaners, and need to be removed, cleaned and reoiled every service.

Optionally on the Series 2a, and standard on the Series 3, this setup was replaced by an airtight cap on the oil filler, with a pipe to a positive crankcase valve on the side of the carburetter, feeding into the intake manifold, and a sealed breather similar in appearance on the rocker cover, with a hose to the intake bend above the carburetter.

This became a legal requirement for all Landrovers sold in Australia some time in the mid sixties, and so is fitted to most late 2as. If the PCV is stuck, blocked or removed, the lack of crankcase ventilation is likely to result in condensation inside the engine, leading to all sorts of problems. This is most likely to be a problem in cool or damp climates. Replacement diaphragms for the PCV are available , I believe, and there is really no reason for disconnecting the system - it provides more reliable ventilation, and is less likely to allow grit to enter the engine.

John

1968/1969/1970 depending on state and it was applicable to the year of manufacture not the year of sale.

mines a 1966.

I will replace the O ring as the one that came off has split/pinched.. and seemed loose anyway.

Does anyone have a part number or size for the O ring. I never seem to get the time to go to the shops these days so was just going to see if I could get my hands on an O ring kit of varying sizes prefebably with the size I need in it

the generic imperial GJ Oring kit has the right one in it but its a pricey way to get a one off oring.

better (slightly more costly) is to go and purchase the loctite O ring manufacturing kit it comes with everything you need to make pretty much every O ring known to man. It also comes with a dandy sheet covering different cross sections of various material should you wish to get exotic.

O Ring Splicing Kit - O-Rings - Supplies - Hardware : Grainger Industrial Supply

lists at $101 or something like it

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ORi...BaseItem=5A234

lists at $136

It's part number 268887 and is £0.82 in the UK

If you get a top end gasket kit, you get one in there.