Bleeding Brakes!!!

Not sure how similar your brake set-up is to a Series III, but I had a hell of a time trying to get a good pedal feel on my Series III a while back (after changing the rear wheel cylinders). After many varied attempts to bleed the system over a period of about a year, it eventually turned out to be the shoe adjustment. It seemed that when trying to adjust the shoes back to their proper position after bleeding, the "snails" also moved the shoes off centre. Eventually sorted it out by going for a drive and doing some hard braking to centre the shoes properly. Parked it, jammed a piece of timber between the brake pedal and seat box so the brakes were on hard, and went under and wound out all the snails so they held the brakes fully on. Then released the brake pedal, went around jacking up each wheel one by one and turned back the snails till the "brake rubbing" sound just stopped. Result was a good hard pedal, and been great ever since.
Good luck, I know how frustrating it is.
Adam.

I notice one problem that hasn't been mentioned here, but has cropped up before for me. A while ago a friend had a shortie that he could never get good brakes on. It turned out he had referenced a long wheelbase rear wheel diagram when setting up the shoes and springs. They run the springs between the two shoes, but they have two snail cams on each wheel. Shorties only have one snail cam and the spring goes between the leading shoe and the peg on the backing plate. The result was his brakes were awful despite having no air in the system and the adjustment was locked right up. This may not apply in your situation, but it may be useful to someone.

I can't think of anything else obvious that may be doing it. The idea of raising the front of the Landy (mentioned earlier) was for early vehicles when bleeding air out of a CB master cylinder. Good luck.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (in disguise), 68 2BFC pet6 (dozing quietly), plus others.

Hi all thanks for everyone's help, made the vacuum bleeder today made no difference at all.

I don't think there is air in the system, but a problem at the shoes and drums,but what?

The springs are hooked up post on the shoe to post on the backing plate, what else is there to them.

Maybe something like AdsLandies had going on?

I'm just about of ideas no I AM out of ideas I'm about ready to drop a match on it all!! seriously

Maybe post a more specific location than just your state, and have someone with a few decades Landy experience have a look at it with you. It is sometimes necessary to get a fresh pair of eyes to locate the problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by custommade

Hi all thanks for everyone's help, made the vacuum bleeder today made no difference at all.

I don't think there is air in the system, but a problem at the shoes and drums,but what?

The springs are hooked up post on the shoe to post on the backing plate, what else is there to them.

Maybe something like AdsLandies had going on?

I'm just about of ideas no I AM out of ideas I'm about ready to drop a match on it all!! seriously

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If you clamp all 3 hoses, the pedal should be rock hard and right up at the top. Is that the case???

If the pedal goes down more than 1/4" in the above case, you need to adjust the actuator rod.

If the above is all ok, try clamping each wheel cylinder with a g-clamp. While clamping the hoses to any other wheel cylinders. This will make the cylinders minimum volume - making it easy to get any air out. If the brakes are still rock hard when the wheel cylinders are clamped, then it can only be adjustment.

You should also be able to tell when you bleed each side if a clear stream of fluid is coming out of if it spurts out (still has air in it)???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

Maybe post a more specific location than just your state, and have someone with a few decades Landy experience have a look at it with you. It is sometimes necessary to get a fresh pair of eyes to locate the problem.

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Thanks. I have a few decades of landy experience.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

If you clamp all 3 hoses, the pedal should be rock hard and right up at the top. Is that the case???

If the pedal goes down more than 1/4" in the above case, you need to adjust the actuator rod.

If the above is all ok, try clamping each wheel cylinder with a g-clamp. While clamping the hoses to any other wheel cylinders. This will make the cylinders minimum volume - making it easy to get any air out. If the brakes are still rock hard when the wheel cylinders are clamped, then it can only be adjustment.

You should also be able to tell when you bleed each side if a clear stream of fluid is coming out of if it spurts out (still has air in it)???

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I have done all of the above. read the thread

Read in the haynes manual at the end of the braking section in fault finding it says:

Symptom: Pedal feels springy

Reasons: Brake linings not bedded into the drums after fitting new ones.

Anyone had this with new shoes? And would they be that bad?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by custommade

I have done all of the above. read the thread

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Sorry I tried to help.

FYI I did read the thread before posting. I cannot see where you state how much free play you have with all 3 clamped? There should be no noticeable "hose flex" that you refer to.

You say you have bled 15L of fluid, but not if you are still getting bubbles?

I cannot see where you state you have clamped the cylinders (rather than the hoses)?

If you have "3 decades of LR experience" you should know how to adjust linings by now. I have never had problems with "lining flex". I have however had plenty of adjustment issues over the years.

If there is no air in the system, you should be able to pump the pedal a couple of times and get a hard pedal. Can you? If so, you should be able to hold your foot on the pedal and it will not go down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Sorry I tried to help.

FYI I did read the thread before posting. I cannot see where you state how much free play you have with all 3 clamped? There should be no noticeable "hose flex" that you refer to.

You say you have bled 15L of fluid, but not if you are still getting bubbles?

I cannot see where you state you have clamped the cylinders (rather than the hoses)?

If you have "3 decades of LR experience" you should know how to adjust linings by now. I have never had problems with "lining flex". I have however had plenty of adjustment issues over the years.

If there is no air in the system, you should be able to pump the pedal a couple of times and get a hard pedal. Can you? If so, you should be able to hold your foot on the pedal and it will not go down.

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Thanks for you insight. I'm not the only person to have problems with "lining flex". its been talked about on other forums plenty. I know how to adjust the shoes and yes there is heaps of air bubbles coming out
that's why I think there is NO air in the lines. I've been working on cars and bikes for nearly 30 years I'm not a ****ing retard, just cause it hasn't happened to you doesn't mean it cant happen.