Thread: Help! Problems fitting axles

Never run into that problem. Confirm that the problem is at the diff by placing the axles in with the diff out - I think you have done that. With them in place confirm that the space between the axle ends is greater than the width of the cross shaft in the diff centre, This all being OK, next check the straightness of the axle housing. With the diff in place you should be able to sight through from one side to the other past the cross shaft - If you have a piece of paper with a series of concentric circles centred on the end of the housing, and with a light behind it, the view through the diff should be concentric with them when looking through a pinhole centred in the other end of the housing. You may want to repeat from the other side, but I think any bend in the housing will be obvious just looking from one side.

If this is all OK, look carefully at the splines on the shafts and the diff sun gears - No slight wear steps? No burrs?

Failing all this, I'm about out of ideas!

John

G'day All, I would be looking at the interference fit of the axle into bearing at the rear of the spindle housing (swivel chrome ball) especially since you say that you have changed axles, it has to be something simple all the best cheers Dennis

you're not fouling the axle on the bearing inside the axle tube are you?

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you're not fouling the axle on the bearing inside the axle tube are you?

The problem is dave it feels like the axle is going into the diff because if you turn the axle it turns the diff but it just was not going in enough for us to be able to put the stub axle up flush to the swivel housing.

Ian did actually just get them in but it took beating them in with a hammer???? The we realised that we never actually put any gasket paste on the fact of the diff so then had to get the bastard things back out again...and again needed to use a big hammer.

Ian doesn't recall having any dramas getting them out which is why he finds it so hard to understand why they are reluctant to go back in.
Surely you should not have to take a hammer to it each time you try.

Hi

just left a posting on the other thread as well.

The diff housing's on series 1's are narrower than the series 2A.
I have used this fact to improve the turning circle of the series 1 landies, by replacing with Series 2A front and back axle housings and axles.
Also when replacing a broken axle in a 88" series 1, the cost of the rarely found axle to suit, makes fitting series 2 axles into the rear a much more sensible repair.
The extra length of the half shalf is taken up by making a spacer to pack out between the hub and the driving flange.
most of these spacers are made from old driving flanges machined in a lathe to suit.
Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi

just left a posting on the other thread as well.

The diff housing's on series 1's are narrower than the series 2A.
I have used this fact to improve the turning circle of the series 1 landies, by replacing with Series 2A front and back axle housings and axles.
Also when replacing a broken axle in a 88" series 1, the cost of the rarely found axle to suit, makes fitting series 2 axles into the rear a much more sensible repair.
The extra length of the half shalf is taken up by making a spacer to pack out between the hub and the driving flange.
most of these spacers are made from old driving flanges machined in a lathe to suit.
Cheers Arthur

I might add that this practice has resulted in some series 2A getting out there with the narrow diff housings. Buyer beware!!
Not good !

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

I might add that this practice has resulted in some series 2A getting out there with the narrow diff housings. Buyer beware!!
Not good !

Cheers Arthur

Even so Arthur we cant get the axles we took out of the housing back in easily so your theory should not have any real relevance to the situation we are currenlty experiencing..because its the same parts plus we have tried other parts too.

Im assuming its the front axle....

at the joint of the swivel housing and the axle tube there is a roller bearing occasionally this will skew and catch on the shoulder of the race on the shaft.

usually the splines will engage to about 1/2 way before you hit this bearing.

to test it pack the splines of the axle with grease and insert it, the grease will be displaced and indicate how far in you're getting apply the same to the bearing race and see whats fouls where.