Thread: Bugger clutch, gearboox and flywheel housing

the oil comes from one of 3 places...

mostly in the 2's its from the gearbox with it out its a simple case to drop the clutch throwout assembly and replace the bits that need it.

then its the rear main occasionally its the T seals, fingering the back of the flywheel through the timing port cover will reveal if its either of these (you can change the rear main and the t seals with it all assembled but its not a whole lot of fun.

very very rarely its oil leaking down the back of the engine into the joint of the adaptor plate and bell housing. this is easy to spot as oil on the back of the block.


yes repco can do the clutch for a 2 a but if your going the complete unit be warey of the pressure plate if you have the 3 finger pressure plate, they have a nasty habit of providing the series III pressure plate which wont work on a series 2 box without an adaptor for the throwout.

on edit

I also tend to flavor the gearbox oil with a little ATF or oil based food dye to give it a clearly definable colour, gearbox oil that winds up in the bell housing picks up clutch dust and looks a lot like engine oil.

Dave I think there was oil on the back of the engine...but I cant really remember as there was pretty much oil everywhere when we took everything out. the gearbox was covered in oil and dirt as was the front diff so it was really hard to see where anything had come from especially as it looks like YEARS worth of oil and dirt

It sometimes works to simply smell the oil. Gear oil has a distinctive smell.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (resting quietly), plus others.

the easy way to check it with everything apart.

run the engine up without the box on it, if its going to leak it will.

get a special drill bit lathed up for your drill that steps from 1/2 inch to about inch (whatever the size of the nose of the input shaft is.) use a peice of hose pipe and a pair of hose clamps to mount that to the nose of the box clamp it into the drill then use that to spin up the box for 20 minutes or so any leaks will become obvious.

i'm not sure how we can run the engine without putting everything back on?

Most common leak that wets the bellhousing is the rear main oil seal. Leaves that wet patch in the parking bay.

Its a 9/10 nasty job to change out a cheap part. When fitting the new seal use Hylomar on the lips of the seal and shaft which is recommended by LR. Sump off to get to it.

I did one but the engine was out so made it easier. had to take ther sump off. W.

Originally Posted by dullbird

i'm not sure how we can run the engine without putting everything back on?

easy enough.

secure the engine on its mounts and block of wood under the flywheel housing on top of the cross memeber, fuel from a line into a half full jerry can with a rag stuffed in the neck to stop the vapours jumper cables to the starter motor and the coil and cooling via the radiator mounted to its bulkhead and held in place by a couple of bolts and a bit of rope tied to the spring mounts.

Ok so say the main seal has gone whats involved in changing it? is it behind the rather large wheel at the bottom of the engine?