Thread: Wheel Cylinders!

Hi All,
I am in the process of overhauling all of my brakes on my 61 LWB Ute.
The flexible hoses have electrical tape on them, all of the wheel cylinders are leaking, the rear drivers side didn't even have shoes fitted!!
Anyway - I have come across a problem. I intend to purchase all new wheel cylinders, BUT my rear's are held on via 3 bolts. I have been told that this is rare and that the more common is 2 bolts.
It has been suggested that I fit 2A backing plates, so that I can then fit the 2 bolt wheel cylinders.
I can't find anybody that can supply the 3 bolt wheel cylinder.
I have been told that there isn't any point re-sleeving the old units.
I can't find anybody that can supply the 2A backing plate.
Any suggestions?
Regards,
The Grey Ghost!

I've got myself into the habit of stainless sleeving ALL hydraulic cylinders on Landies. It's expensive, granted, but far less so than replacing cylinders every two or three years. From bitter personal experience, the new cylinders I bought first time round would not stand up to a light hone when they started leaking two years from purchase. And a brand new long wheelbase CV master cylinder's kit (installed in the factory) failed less than a year into its working life. The inevitable result of new parts being made down to a price.

Since you still have the original three-bolt rear wheel cylinders, I would definitely sleeve them. They are simply not available anywhere new. Later cylinders will fit the backing plates, but let dirt in through the redundant holes.

For the same reasons, I told a friend to sleeve his Series 1 109 cylinder rather than try adapting (read 'hatchet') a later one in. It cost him nearly $250 but it will last him forever without mangling his unmolested 109.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (running again), plus others.