Thread: Articulation - What can you get?

Nice landie.

Mine is ex-military so the mil chassis and hangers are standard.

I have custom springs (I have posted the mods on here before), std mil front shocks with bump stop spacer removed, RRC/110 rear shocks on the rear.



(the above isn't at full travel).

I can still carry loads - with 1T in the back (slightly overloaded ) it has ~ 0.5" of suspension travel before the bump stops.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Nice landie.

Mine is ex-military so the mil chassis and hangers are standard.

I have custom springs (I have posted the mods on here before), std mil front shocks with bump stop spacer removed, RRC/110 rear shocks on the rear.



(the above isn't at full travel).

I can still carry loads - with 1T in the back (slightly overloaded ) it has ~ 0.5" of suspension travel before the bump stops.

Ben.When I had a Landy that very much resembled your vehicle but with the old thin leaf dual rate Station Wagon springs, I found that the rear tyre on the compressed side would foul on the bottom corner of the wheel box during full articulation.I bevelled the area for clearance.did you need to do something similar?Tyres on SWB hit the tops of the wheel boxes even with 7.50s and the panel above the tyre should be cut out and a higher box built on top, except for those who like to keep thing original.

Wagoo.

Originally Posted by wagoo

Ben.When I had a Landy that very much resembled your vehicle but with the old thin leaf dual rate Station Wagon springs, I found that the rear tyre on the compressed side would foul on the bottom corner of the wheel box during full articulation.I bevelled the area for clearance.did you need to do something similar?Tyres on SWB hit the tops of the wheel boxes even with 7.50s and the panel above the tyre should be cut out and a higher box built on top, except for those who like to keep thing original.

Wagoo.

Hi Bill,

My rear springs were designed around the 2-stage S-Wgn springs - however they ended up slightly softer (in theory).

When the disco rims were standard they would rub on the upper inside edges of the tub on full articulation (with 235s).

I then fitted 285s (as in the picture), Instead the tyres started rubbing on the lower front corner of the wheelarch - as you mention - and also on the inside edge at the top. The aluminium is shiny, but the tyres have been holding up to the rubbing, so I haven't done anything about it yet. If I fit bigger tyres I ill need to cut the rear arches.

I have the front adjusted for maximum lock, so they rub on the shackle bolts and inner guards on full lock+maximum up-travel. The shackle bolts are good at chewing the lugs up

Harley

Isuzurover and Wagoo are the experts in this area, however the front prop-shaft angles on your vehicle are of concern as is the steering geometry (bump-steer).

If you look at Isuzurovers SIIa you can see it is a military/1 ton chassis where the the front spring hanger are extended as well as the shackles on the back of the spring (same on the rear.) This configuration keeps the steering geometry correct and the plane of the output shaft parallel to the plane of the diff pinion, the way a prop shaft is designed to work. With the extended shackles only arrangement people may find vibrations in the front prop shaft at speed.

Have you wedged your axle assemble to correct the steering and prop shaft angles?

The other option to correct the prop shaft issues is to use a DC joint on the shaft and rotate the swivel balls to correct the steering geometry (slotted holes).

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Harley

Isuzurover and Wagoo are the experts in this area, however the front prop-shaft angles on your vehicle are of concern as is the steering geometry (bump-steer).

If you look at Isuzurovers SIIa you can see it is a military/1 ton chassis where the the front spring hanger are extended as well as the shackles on the back of the spring (same on the rear.) This configuration keeps the steering geometry correct and the plane of the output shaft parallel to the plane of the diff pinion, the way a prop shaft is designed to work. With the extended shackles only arrangement people may find vibrations in the front prop shaft at speed.

Have you wedged your axle assemble to correct the steering and prop shaft angles?

The other option to correct the prop shaft issues is to use a DC joint on the shaft and rotate the swivel balls to correct the steering geometry (slotted holes).

Diana

There are also other changes for the military ones - a cutout of the gearbox crossmember to stop the front prop shaft from hitting it and I believe a relocation of the top shock mount and longer bump stops. Certainly longer shocks at least with the extended bump stops to stop them compressing too far.

TimJ.

Here is a picture of mine on the impromptu travel ramp we had at our inter club jamboree at Janowen Hills. Mods are to take a standard aftermarket spring pack, remove two leaves from the back, one from the front, diamond cut and chamfer the ends, oil and reinstall. Shocks are Procomp that came with a previous set of RM Parabolics. Bushes are Polybush from the UK. It still has the straps on the back as well.



TimJ.

I had my SWB 2a at full articulation the other day I am pretty sure, I was surprised that the top of the rear tyres started fouling on the tub like Wagoo said after I drove out of the below picture.







I didnt get a decent LHS shot, for some stupid reason

Do people here think the rear is a stock setup? I am fairly impressed with the rear. The front is a bit more so-so but okay.

When at maximum I still had a bit of distance before the strap caught the axle.

Sam