Thread: The new arrival

The fuel pump does not keep clicking now
Had some fun cleaning out the carb and filters in the pump etc , they were very dirty
The float bowl was nasty and full of crap

So was the fuel filter , can you but new gauze for these filters ? Or is it worth putting a newer one in line after the fuel tank ?

Fuel pump filter was the same as the rest .

Prepped the rest of the body for paint but weather wasn't good for it today so did a repair on the rear outrigger , not the best but will do for now.

I ordered an new brake switch online for $5.60 which I'm pretty happy about . Once the body is painted I will have to get under and degrease everything , check for leaks and clean and paint the chassis (not looking forward to it but will be worth it !)
I think I'll use this one as a trial run , the sooner I get it registered the sooner I can get rid of my current daily driver and start looking for another one to play with

Starting to look a bit better now , still need to get under and sort the chassis out but I think it's on its way to getting registered .
I'm just waiting on new festoon holders for the lights and headlight relays to finish the electrical .Need's to get some tyres for it , tailgate glass and work out the seat belts ( may do that after a Blue slip to avoid complications ). I think everything else is there but I'm sure something else will come up !

I have slowed down now after a rushed start to get it ready for rego I have moved my deadline to January.

I have spent a couple of days with the de-greaser and its getting better under there , there was a lot of grease there ,probably holding it all together .Chassis looks pretty good so I'll keep my fingers crossed

The transmission brake was full of oil so I have cleaned it out, ordered some new pads and will sort out where the leak is prior to fitting. Ive cleaned up the gear box , transfer and linkages etc and have some nice looking lumps in there now.

The front prop looks ok but there was a bit of movement on the spline and a piece of metal sitting on the shaft ( anyone know what it is ? ).


I have ordered six new ball joints to go on and new front engine mounts and am hoping that will do me for the moment. There is a slight leak from the swivel pin housing but no movement so I'll check the seal later.
Here are a few more numbers for Bulletproof , they are from the gearbox and transfer



I better get off and buy some more de-greaser

don't fit new handbrake shoes before replacing the output seal on the back of the transfer box, that is where your leak will be coming from

Oh no , there appears to be a fuel tank leak Bit beyond my abilities this one . Its coming from the bottom seem when you apply pressure .

Money being tight I need to find the cheapest solution available and any advice would be appreciated .................There is a fuel tank from a LWB on interweb but looks different to the one fitted on my SWB . Can it be fitted with a bit of modification ? Alternatively can it be repaired somehow without me going to Hospital .

Originally Posted by sanderm2

Oh no , there appears to be a fuel tank leak Bit beyond my abilities this one . Its coming from the bottom seem when you apply pressure .

Money being tight I need to find the cheapest solution available and any advice would be appreciated .................There is a fuel tank from a LWB on interweb but looks different to the one fitted on my SWB . Can it be fitted with a bit of modification ? Alternatively can it be repaired somehow without me going to Hospital .

SEARCH the forum, (redcote/redkote?)its not as desperately bad as you think!

Originally Posted by sanderm2

The transmission brake was full of oil so I have cleaned it out, ordered some new pads and will sort out where the leak is prior to fitting.

Check that surface that the seal runs on, if you can catch your fingernail on it when you scratch along it's surface, it needs something doing about it and besides the fitting of a new part ,the repair that most try now, is the thin wall sleeve over the worn surface.

The front prop looks ok but there was a bit of movement on the spline and a piece of metal sitting on the shaft ( anyone know what it is ? ).

The little square of metal is attached there by spot welding it on and is done by the factory, when they balance the shaft.

I have ordered six new ball joints to go on

As others have found out and have posted on this forum, there are serious issues if the wrong ones are fitted!
Do check the pitch and diameter of the threads and the internal condition of the female threads in the rods.
Another catch to watch out for, some steering knuckles have a shoulder between the thread and the ball cup.
I like to use, a good quality brand of steering knuckle with grease nipples fitted.

and new front engine mounts and am hoping that will do me for the moment.

Do all four mounts at the same time, as the rear ones nearly always get soft from oil sprayed about over time and this allows the softer rear mounts to move about much more, over loading the front engine mounts.

There is a slight leak from the swivel pin housing but no movement so I'll check the seal later.

Again there is another posting ( which I have done a bit of tormenting on as well ), about the inspection and repair of these swivel pin housing seals, do check it out , there's lots of good advice, with some links to YouTube video's on how to do it.

Cheers Arthur

Hi again

Can you do me a favour, if it isn't too much trouble ?

Pull one of the rear axles out of your early series 2 88" and compare it in length to an axle from the same side from a later series 2A 88".

As I would like to know for sure, if yours is the first of the series 2's, as those first ones had the same front and back axle housings as the series one 88" 's and they had the narrower wheel track.

Cheers Arthur