Reply With Quoteyour going to want a press in the 5-10t range
(Diana, move this to all Series area if you think it's generic across all Series water pumps)
When I rebuilt the 2¼l petrol engine, I replaced the water pump as the old one appeared to be 'scraping' when it was rotated.
It could just be the impeller getting too close to the rust buildup - or it could be something worse.
I have managed to get my hands on a water pump repair kit that appears to have 3 components - a shaft, an impeller and a bearing/seal(?)
My question is how to pull the old one apart without totally shagging anything that I will want to reuse and putting it back together resulting in something that could be used.
The old pump is complete i.e. it has the boss that holds the fan, the shaft and impeller.
Correct me if I am wrong - and post your experiences/tips - but I am assuming the following:
- Remove the fan boss
- push the shaft and impeller out through the housing
- remove the bearing
- clean everything inside the housing, removing all rust buildup
- replace the bearing
- assemble the impeller and shaft
- press it back into the housing - leaving a 10 thou (*) gap between impeller and housing
- reinstall fan hub
* - does anyone know what gap is required/preferred?
Anything else I need to know?
Any special tools needed?
Any tips for disassemble and reassembly?
Any lube required?
Thanks in advance.
RoverLord
your going to want a press in the 5-10t range
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ThanksOriginally Posted by Blknight.aus
I have one that is supposedly rated for 20 ton - but I figure 10 to 12 is probably more realistic.
Does my method make sense?
RoverLord
yep, thats about how you do it...
the pressing sequence may change depending on bearing cassette configuration but you'll work that out on the day.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Master
Supporter
"Press the impeller on to the spindle until there is a 0.020 in. (0.5mm) clearance between the vanes and the impeller face"
LR Workshop Manual, 1963
It also states the pulley must be pressed on to the spindle to give a 3.453 in. (86.5mm) distance between the front face of the pulley hub and the mounting face of the pump housing.
Lubrication - "a few drops of thick oil in the location hole of the bearing"
It also suggests painting the spindle with chlorinated rubber primer (part no. 261483 for 1/2 pint tin!) to prevent corrosion, or failing that to use good quality aluminium paint or other anti-corrosive paint.
Thanks guys - it goes with a bit of a bang when pressure overcomes 40 years of neglect, doesn't it?
I might have to bolt the press down...
RoverLord
if you're lucky yes... if your not it makes more of a "snap" "crack" and "pting" as the housing stresses and shatters.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Murphy is usually riding shotgun for me and I was fully expecting your 'alternative'. Not totally concerned because I already have a water pump on the engine and this one is destined for the 'working spares' bin.
However, Murphy must have had an off day.
It's a mess in the water areas. This engine was parked up for 10 years and there is significant rust deposits all through it. The head and block have been flushed by the professionals who I outsourced them to.
Now it's time to get all the crud out of this water pump housing. I would rather do this myself if possible - the guys who do it for a living are a tad expensive.
Any suggestions?
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