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Thread: Removing Clutch/Brake Cylinders

  1. #1
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    Removing Clutch/Brake Cylinders

    Hi All,
    Restoring a 1961 Series 2 (not a Series 2A).
    Having immense pleasure removing the Brake & Clutch Cylinders.
    I am struggling with the bottom bolts/nuts - is there a trick?
    I have tried coming up via the drivers foot-well (via the cut-out section for the pedals).
    But I just can't seem to get a hold on the nut/bolt...
    I've removed the mud splash panel - thinking that it might make things easier.
    Anybody have any tricks?
    As usual - all help is greatly appreciated!
    Regards,
    The Grey Ghost

  2. #2
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    Hey,

    I have found removing the six bolts around the pedal and removing the whole housing is a bit easier than the way you are going.

    With the whole housing out you can get a better run at the bolts.

    Sam

  3. #3
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    by yourself

    remove the pipe work
    unbolt the tower from inside the cab (6 bolts be careful of the spring and switch holders)
    lift the tower out (tetris of the lift, turn and tilt variety is required)
    now unbolt the cylinders

    If you have 2 people
    using a 1/4 or 3/8th inch socket set with a short extention and a universal joint drive undo the bolts from inside the engine bay while your offsider holds the bottom nut from inside the cab.

    Grasp the pushrod with a pair of needle nose locking pliers then using an open ended spanner undo the nut on the end of the rod. If you're lucky theres a hole in the end of the tower that you can get in with a deep reach socket.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  4. #4
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    Hi Sam/Dave,
    Thanks for the advice - I decided on removing the entire bracket that holds the 2 cylinders. That way I can clean/paint the bracket as well as the area on the bulk-head...

    Don't you just love beginners....

    I tried to remove the bracket from the top - I just can't get to the lower 2 bolts, because they are blocked by the steering column.

    Should I remove from underneath (inside the cabin)?

    Thanks as always,
    The Grey Ghost

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by grey_ghost View Post
    Hi Sam/Dave,
    Thanks for the advice - I decided on removing the entire bracket that holds the 2 cylinders. That way I can clean/paint the bracket as well as the area on the bulk-head...

    Don't you just love beginners....

    I tried to remove the bracket from the top - I just can't get to the lower 2 bolts, because they are blocked by the steering column.

    Should I remove from underneath (inside the cabin)?

    Thanks as always,
    The Grey Ghost
    Yes. The nuts are captive (or were originally!), and there are two separate brackets, one for each pedal. Take them off, clean them up, repaint them. While they are off do the same for the surface they mount on. Also, when replacing, fit a new gasket here, and make sure it is sealed, using a sealant if there is any doubt - water off the road comes in otherwise!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    Hi John/Dave/Sam,

    Thanks for the great advice.

    I removed one of the brackets last night - by undoing the 6 bolts from underneath. I will clean/sand/paint the bracket & the firewall section for good measure.

    It was so much easier than the method that I was trying:
    -Removed the Mud Splash Panel (which I am replacing anyway)
    -Right hand/arm up under the guard, with a spanner onto the lower nut.
    -Left hand/arn up through the gap in the firewall that the pedal goes through
    I could actually get purchase - but not enough to get the dog undone!

    I am certainly living and learing. I've never restored anything before, but I'm enjoying it (mostly!).

    Thanks to all of the great advice on this web-site.

    The Grey Ghost!

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