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Thread: Clutch Alignment Tool

  1. 1st February 2012, 04:39 PM #1
    geodon's Avatar
    geodon
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    Clutch Alignment Tool

    You won't find this one in your workshop manual!

    You need:

    300mm of 7/8ths Bright Bar.

    A carefully measured amount of 2-3 inch duct tape.

    Using a bench grinder, make a precision chamfer on the end to be inserted then polish to a high state with a rotary wire brush mounted on said bench grinder.

    Wind just enough duct tape around the bar (starting where the bar pokes out of the flywheel spigot bush) so that the clutch plate splines are a firm friction fit when pushed over the bar.

    Bolt the pressure plate on so that the friction plate can be slid into the central position with your precision tool. You may need to offset gravity by lifting the end of the bar so it lines up with the axis of the motor.

    Torque the pressure plate mounting bolts.

    Of course, a spare mainshaft does the job but not everyone has one or you may be "in the wild".


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  2. 1st February 2012, 06:24 PM #2
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    Blknight.aus
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    alternatively...

    find a deep reach socket that fits inside the spigot bearing and put it on the end of your extension bar, slide it in and out of the friction plate splines and then into and out of the spigot bearing. on all landies the minor diameter of the spines is the same as the spigot bearings ID. (or near enough to)
    Dave

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  3. 1st February 2012, 06:42 PM #3
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    JDNSW
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    When my brother replaced the clutch (of my 2a) in the middle of the Simpson in 1966 he used four inches of broomstick plus some insulation tape ......

    John
    John

    JDNSW
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  4. 1st February 2012, 06:45 PM #4
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    If you're eyes are good enough you can just eyeball it.

    you can also measure the distance from the edge of the friction plate to the edge of the flywheel with a steel rule before you completely bolt down the pressure plate.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. 1st February 2012, 06:57 PM #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    When my brother replaced the clutch (of my 2a) in the middle of the Simpson in 1966 he used four inches of broomstick plus some insulation tape ......

    John
    That's what I use all the time John
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  6. 1st February 2012, 09:27 PM #6
    drifter Guest
    I use an extension from the socket set - wrap some electrical tape around it. No worries.
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  7. 3rd February 2012, 09:47 AM #7
    DBunny Guest
    Broomstick for me the first few times. Nowadays I have a Sykes Pickavent alignment tool set though
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  8. 3rd February 2012, 08:23 PM #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    When my brother replaced the clutch (of my 2a) in the middle of the Simpson in 1966 he used four inches of broomstick plus some insulation tape ......

    John
    I've always used broomstick too. Got a cut length which I keep with my "other" tools....
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