Thread: Brake advice - To skim or replace??

If the drums have already been skimmed - new drums.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

If the drums have already been skimmed - new drums.

John

x2. However shop around to see if you can get a better price on the drums. Don't forget the UK...

You'll need shoes to match the drum size, so as Ben and John say, get new drums and standard shoes.

Don't understand the engine suffix relationship to brake drums????
S2a drums all have 9/16" stud holes, so the drums are either 10" for a short wheelbase or for long wheelbase they are either 11" x 2 1/2" for 4cyl or 11" x 3" for a 6cyl (providing no one has retrofitted something else)

Remember SIII drums have 16mm stud holes which are bigger than the 9/16"

Another one for new drums.

Again - I am for new drums but have you actually measured the old drums to see if they are in limits. I cannot speak for series 2 drums but my 101 drums have the max internal diameter cast into the drums so I assume other series drums would be the same.

garry

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

.....

Remember SIII drums have 16mm stud holes which are bigger than the 9/16"

Unless I am mistaken, some late S2a had 16mm studs, although it is doubtful that any got to Australia. Of course, as with any Series Landrover, there is a distinct possibility that the brakes come from a different model, so you need to check whether the studs are 9/16 or 16mm. (And check the drum diameter if it is a swb!)

John

Have you checked that the drums actually need machining ?

As mentioned by garrycol the maximum internal diameter of the drum should be cast or stamped in the drum. If you're inside this dimension then you could get new oversize linings (let the brake company have the exact drum ID and they should be able to machine the linings to suit).

I had a chat with my father-in-law a few weeks ago about the drums on my Series 2. They are the originals (date cast in is 1959) but they are outside the Land Rover maximum ID. They have no maximum ID dimension cast/stamped on them.
His thoughts were :-
If there is no maximum dimension on the drum you could machine out further if required but you need to use common sense (which isn't so common nowadays !).
The fact that the drum has ridges in it isn't a problem except for initial bedding-in. The ridges create a larger surface area so the braking can be better than with new drums.


Colin

They pay for themselves in the long run.

Over many years, I've found that shoes will wear out unevenly on machined drums, i.e. on the leading edges whereas the trailing edges don't wear out much.

This means the leading edges are taking the brunt of the braking effort & the shoes wear out faster.

It was really bad with small drums eg MG Midget rear brakes.