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Thread: Wheel Nut Thread

  1. #1
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    Wheel Nut Thread

    Can someone pls confirm the 2A's are 9/16UNF 18TPI?

    My fronts are so bad my trusty Ingersoll Rand rattle gun is having trouble!!

    I have bought a tap & die nut to clean up.

    They SURELY are not BSF?? 9/16ths BSF is 16 TPI & that makes it hard to distinguish. My eyes aren't what they used to be!

  2. #2
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    If they're the type that screw in to the hub, then I believe they are 9/16BSF. The later ones are a press fit splined stud, and they are M16.

    The early version had a couple of different wheel nuts, a short/wide version and a long/narrow version.

    All these variants of nuts and studs are still available.

    To change from screw-in to press-in requires a 22mm (approx.) end mill to recess the back of the hub and provide a flat seat for the stud - originally there is a groove around the hub to allow the screw-in stud to be peened over. Of course a later version of the hub (SIII) is a straight swap, as long as it's not the very late (1984?) version that has different bearings.

    It is not unheard of for the screw-in stud to screw out with the nut, and not completely uncommon for bodged fixes. I have seen bolts of various sizes, studs welded to the hub, nuts welded to the stud (then used as bolts) etc.

  3. #3
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    9/16 BSF for sure.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
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  4. #4
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    Bummer!

    Anyone want to buy a 9/16ths UNF tap & die nut?
    Last edited by geodon; 17th May 2012 at 12:29 PM. Reason: UNF

  5. #5
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Shouldn't this be the 'Wheel Nut Thread... Thread...'
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #6
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    They are 9/16" BSF. I have taps but am out of stock of dies. Got more on order being made and could be a while. I don't keep die nuts as they are only used for cleaning threads and can not cut a new thread except maybe in soft stuff, plastic, aluminium, brass.
    URSUSMAJOR

  7. #7
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    Thanks Brian. I have ordered a tap & die nut. The problem with dies is you can't swing them in tight spaces.

    As it transpired, one stud pulled out with the nut so I replaced the set:

    Remove hub
    Angle grind the peened section off the back of the studs
    Attach a brute of a stud extractor & remove studs.
    Screw new ones in (they are about 10mm shorter than OE?)
    weld the backs onto the hubs at 2-3 spots

    5 new nuts.

  8. #8
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    Is welding them safe? The temperatures involved can alter the properties of the metal. Most trailer hitches etc. specifically say "Do Not Weld", and I've always assumed it was to prevent changing the properties of a high stress structure. I'd assume that the studs are high tensile, so welding them would seem very likely to have some impact.

    Welding being so easy and cheap, I'd also have thought that the factory would have done it if it was acceptable, it would have saved machining a groove in the hub and peening the studs, or making a spline and flange on the later versions....... yet I don't think any vehicle I owned, LR or otherwise, has had welded wheel studs.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by geodon View Post
    Thanks Brian. I have ordered a tap & die nut. The problem with dies is you can't swing them in tight spaces.
    You get a hexagon die adapter which come in sizes to suit 13/16", 1", 1 1/2" dies. You can then put a wrench or socket on. Die nuts, or hexagon rethreading dies to use the proper name, are a waste of money in my opinion having only one use.
    URSUSMAJOR

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