Thread: 10" brake retaining ring bolts

Originally Posted by Warb

Is it best to use the locking tabs, or spring washers and/or Loctite, or both?

I'm not sure. I've just run out to have a look at my brake shoes and the bolts on the retaining rings have neither lock tabs nor spring washers. You've got me worried now. Mind you, they haven't given any trouble in twenty years.

I think I'll be fitting spring washers and dosing the threads with Loctite when it comes time for reassembly....

the OEM fitment is a stock bolt with a pair of or U shaped locking plate (a plate 2 or more bolts fit through with tabs to secure one or more flats of the bolt)

Pretty much any bolt of the right grade and dimension secured with loctite 262 or a appropriate locking nut will be ample.

The reason I bought the "correct" bolts is that they self tap in to an unthreaded hole. In fact the new brake pads have what can best be described as a semi-threaded hole, it's not a full thread but there is a very rough "start" of a thread. That being the case, I ordered what are alledgedly the correct self tapping bolts - but they turned out to be flanged!

I think, unless persuaded otherwise, that I'll use Loctite (probably 243, I think 262 might be overkill!) and the locking tabs. That would mimick the factory setup, albeit with flanged bolts, and add Loctite to compensate for any loss of locking caused by the tabs folding over the flanges....

Originally Posted by Warb

I think, unless persuaded otherwise, that I'll use Loctite (probably 243, I think 262 might be overkill!) and the locking tabs. That would mimick the factory setup, albeit with flanged bolts, and add Loctite to compensate for any loss of locking caused by the tabs folding over the flanges....

I use 262 on brake bolts due to the slightly better temperature tolerance and chemical resistance.

Both are resistant to brake fluid, and whilst 262 looses slightly less strength when hot, its heat ageing results are slightly worse. However 262 starts off stronger and ends up stronger, the losses don't change that.

I tend to use 243 simply because I've never had it fail, it provides ample resistance to vibration, and it can be disassembled far more easily than 262 which often needs a great deal of heat, certainly on larger thread sizes.

I have a stack of different Loctite products, everything from the wick-in version (I can't remember the number, but it's specified for the Disco II diff housing drain or fill plug, from memory) to the high strength ones I use in hydraulic systems. But to be honest, unless there is a particular one specified I tend to use 243.