Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Door Seals

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Near Geelong, Vic.
    Posts
    453
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Door Seals

    I bought two of these yonks ago & have forgotten where they go.



    It's Britpart no.MWC6130

    I suspect they are for the bottom of the door jambs like so? They are FAR too long for the door tops.



    If so, this means the door seal that is sold by the metre goes up & over the door top & then down the side. I've done that & it looks a bit odd in the corners.

    Is this correct?





  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Brisvegas
    Posts
    2,387
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Seals are straight, no bends. For the corners cut off with slight overlap.

    Top overlaps rear upright, front diagonal window overlaps top and door front vertical.

    CC

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    452
    Total Downloaded
    0
    How are you fixing the seal to the door surrounds? I was thinking of using some 3M double sided tape used for holding up pictures rather than riviting as the seal I have is just foam nothing really solid to rivet to.

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Ozdunc View Post
    How are you fixing the seal to the door surrounds? I was thinking of using some 3M double sided tape used for holding up pictures rather than riviting as the seal I have is just foam nothing really solid to rivet to.
    The correct seal has a flat hole running the length of it. You put a strip of steel or aluminium in this. Rivetting has the advantage that it is a little more secure than any form of adhesive, although adhesives have improved significantly since 1958.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,795
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The correct seal has a flat hole running the length of it. You put a strip of steel or aluminium in this. Rivetting has the advantage that it is a little more secure than any form of adhesive, although adhesives have improved significantly since 1958.

    John

    Clarke Rubber stock the Land Rover seal or you can pay a bit more and buy it through Scotts Old Auto Rubber (same part number).
    If your strips aren't too rusted you can cut/scrape off the old decomposed seal and slip them inside the new seal. All of mine have been too far gone so I need to get some gal strip cut.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    452
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The correct seal has a flat hole running the length of it. You put a strip of steel or aluminium in this. Rivetting has the advantage that it is a little more secure than any form of adhesive, although adhesives have improved significantly since 1958.

    John
    Cheers. I have that seal and I figured thats how it would work, but couldn't see any mention of the strip in any LR parts suppliers websites, so wasn't sure.
    I might try the 3M tape and report back as it has a fair load rating and the seals not under much load at all. It will just depend on how good the adhesive is over the longer (and muckier) term.

    I'll rivet the lower strip as it's likely to get kicked.

    Now if it would just stop raining.

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Clarke Rubber stock the Land Rover seal or you can pay a bit more and buy it through Scotts Old Auto Rubber (same part number).
    If your strips aren't too rusted you can cut/scrape off the old decomposed seal and slip them inside the new seal. All of mine have been too far gone so I need to get some gal strip cut.

    Colin
    Ones I had to replace I found that the steel strapping used for holding things on pallets etc was ideal. It is not galvanised, but then neither was the original. It should not get wet unless the seal is damaged.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Yarra Valley Victoria
    Posts
    193
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I got mine from Scotts auto rubbers and glued them in place with Sikaflex 11FC, fantastic stuff sticks like you know what to a blanket

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Near Geelong, Vic.
    Posts
    453
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I got mine from FourWheelDrives in Blackburn.

    It has U-section soft metal core that fits on the lip around the door jamb then I compressed it progressively with vice grips.






  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
    Posts
    3,092
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I bought mine from Paddock, they have the strip inside them, it will be interesting to see if they handle the UV light,

    Cheers Charlie

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!