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Thread: SIIA body on defender rolling chassis

  1. #1
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    SIIA body on defender rolling chassis

    Hi guys

    Over here, the series chassis are getting pretty old, but the body panels are quite cheap and plentiful.

    What are the potential issues I should consider if I want to plonk the Series 2A 109 station wagon body panels onto a 110 chassis?

    Should I use a defender bulkhead?
    Are the outriggers in the same / correct place?
    I assume only a shortish four-pot engine would fit? Could I consider the 300TDi without an IC?
    Do I use defender inner skins to the front wheel arches?
    What else.

    Thanks in advance.......

  2. #2
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The body panel dimensions are generally the same, at least on the 110, although not on the 90 (except as you point out, the flat nose on the Defender - solvable by doing this with the 2a). There will be numerous minor problems like missing brackets, holes etc, but nothing major. The biggest problems will be that the axles are not in the same place (wheelbase is longer and both axles further back), and the track is beyond the bodywork. This will presumably require fitting of the mudguard extensions from the Defender. By this time you have ended up with a vehicle that looks more like a Defender than a 2a, so the question has to be asked - why?


    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    I want to try and retain the nose/front of the 2a with the recessed grill. It's a classic look.

    So the chassis-to-axle dimensions are different? Yes, I was aware that the 109 was obviously not the same as the 110 wheelbase (by 1 inch), but I wasn't aware that the distances from the chassis ends to the axle centers were different.

    I'll look at that.

    If I fit a Defender bulkhead (from the V8 for instance), can I run the engine and tranny far enough back to retain the breakfast and the bonnet slam plate in the original position?

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    This one was put onto a Range Rover chassis, I've got the link to the website somewhere, so if I can find it I'll post it up.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    What a beauty!

    That's exactly what I want to achieve!

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    Here's the link to the website

    1966 Series IIA Land Rover 300 tdi conversion

  7. #7
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    Here's another interesting option certainly would make the swap easier

    Land Rover Series 2/3 Galvernised Designa Coil Sprung Replacment Rolling Chassis | eBay

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    Rovers North do excellent work, luckily I won't have to lengthen an RRC chassis!

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    You could also modify a SIII screen onto the Defender firewall and have the benefits of the Defender dash etc.

    Particularly if you sed the early hinges for the Defender screen.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    You could also modify a SIII screen onto the Defender firewall and have the benefits of the Defender dash etc.

    Particularly if you sed the early hinges for the Defender screen.
    Hmmm I'll have to look at that, because I want some defender bulkhead benefits

    Here's how the plan is shaping up:

    - 110 coiler rolling chassis with Sals in the back
    - locker rear and LSD front ( but will consider two True Tracs)
    - LT85 and late LT230 tcase
    - Defender brake system including proper booster
    - 2-inch lift with longer shockies, bent radius and trailing arms
    - Minimum 3L turbo diesel lump with tweaks (M&D or EngineConversions adapter & conversion kit).
    - EGT, 3-inch non-silenced exhaust, oversize Allards or similar IC
    - aircon !

    I've now gone through my stack of LRO and LRM magazines, trying to get ideas.

    The 129 concept ute at Dunsfold caught my eye..........

    Dunsfold Collection

    .....But that look won't work on a station wagon. I might steal the idea of lifting the bonnet/dropping the sides.

    Some items still nagging at my head:

    - mil style wheel arches or just civilian, either of these with GRP extenders?
    - since I will have a Defender dash tray, should I go retro as per Series 3 or rip it all out and go the alloy custom dash route?
    - do I get clever and integrate the rock sliders into the chassis during the build? (remove the standard trim under the doors and install 75mm square tube sliders mounted direct to the outriggers?)
    - should I consider alternative axles like Patrol or LC, and then use a complete Jap drivetrain for the non-offset rear pumkin problem? (but then do I have a Land Rover or just a bitsa?)

    What else? engine and tranny Coolers? Wiring? Batteries?

    Engine oil cooler is a problem: the Series front is a little limited, and I reckon a radiator, IC, and aircon tank will be almost too much already.
    Can I whack the oil cooler next to a chassis rail for protection and run some 12v fans and/or ducting to cool it down?

    Wiring for Hella plugs and other heavy accessories will be done as part of the build, but where do I put the batteries? In the seat box as per tradition, or should I look at an external or rear option?

    I think I'm staying with the Defender windscreen: better visibility, works best with the Defender wipers, and shatter-proof glass is cheaper. But then I have to use Defender B and C door pillars? I suppose then that defender doors would be inevitable, or would Ashcroft supply a taller door top for instance?

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