Sticky brakes and wobbly steering

**happydad59** · 17th November 2012, 02:10 PM

Help needed from all you old hands.
Question 1 - I have just tried out the fully renovated brakes on my 88" IIa. It now has a new master cylinder (plastic reservoir type), "new" restored PBR VH 44 booster from Hydroboost, 3 new wheel cylinders (the fourth was much newer and was working OK), all new brake lines, new pressure switch; but, (there's always a but) when I put the brakes on they stay on after pedal pressure is removed - full pressure in the lines locks all the brakes on (brake lights stay on too). The only way to release pressure is to crack one of the bleed nipples - about a spoonful of fluid comes out and then all is fine. This occurs when vacuum to booster is disconnected as well as when it is connected. Any ideas?

Second question - The steering wheel moves about 1/4 turn without moving the road wheels - all the slack appears to be in the steering relay box - the top arm of the relay moves but the bottom one doesn't. Is there anyway of adjusting or tighteninging the relay?

**MuckUte** · 17th November 2012, 03:34 PM

The brakes sticking on soundslike it is caused by a badly adjusted pedal. There should be a few mm free play in the pedal before it starts to push the master cylinder.

Does the top or bottom of the relay move side to side or front to back when turning the steering wheel, if so the free play could be caused by a worn bush in the relay also have a close look at the tie rod ends attached to the relay to see if they are what is causing the play.

**JDNSW** · 17th November 2012, 04:51 PM

The brake problem is most likely adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod, but could be the VH44.

The steering relay has no adjustment. Free play will come from one of the following, and it should be easy to find which.

1. Either bottom or top arm is loose on its splines. Tightening the pinch bolt may work, but it most likely means replacing both the relay (or shaft) and the arm. Note that the pinch bolt must be fully removed before the arm can be.

2. Relay unit is worn out due to operating without oil. Bushes can be replaced, and the shaft as well if necessary. Do not attempt to disassemble the relay unless you understand what you are doing. It includes a powerful spring that can kill you.

3.The relay is moving due to wear on the locating ring on the bottom and possibly the bottom plate of the relay. These can be replaced in situ, and the bottom plate can be safely removed.

4. The top is moving due to the holding bolts being loose or the brackets they go in welded to the chassis being broken.Hope this helps,

John

**happydad59** · 17th November 2012, 05:28 PM

Thanks john and muckute. Closer inspection of the relay showed that arms were moving on spline (I had removed them when doing the tie rods ends). Tightening top and bottom bolts has fixed it, wheels now move whenever the steering wheel is moved - so that part of the job is done.
The brakes are a bit more of a problem, I loosened both nuts on the master cylinder shaft and still had a problem, but it seems to be linked to the booster. The problem shows up only after six or eight pumps of pedal when no boost connected, but immediately when boost coonected. Might have to ring hydro boost and have a chat to them.
Peter

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