Thread: Engine Problems today.

First thing this morning, pulled the PCV valve off. Found it very oily, more so than when I had the carbie off a week ago. Removed the top cover, and found that the diaphragm, when cleaned up, has several splits across the circular rib. Confirmed it by taping off the connection below the carbie. Engine now starts and idles normally.

Now all I have to do is see if I can get a new diaphragm.

John

Just ordered a diaphragm from Rimmer Bros - could not find one locally. I could find the entire valve, but apart from the fact that it was a lot more expensive, I'm afraid I had instilled into me in my youth, by parents who had lived through the great depression and two world wars, that you avoid waste. And replacing an entire unit when all that needs replacing is the diaphragm, constitutes waste, especially since the diaphragm is readily removed by removing a spring clip - don't even need any tools or to take it off the vehicle.

John

Just ordered a diaphragm from Rimmer Bros - could not find one locally. I could find the entire valve, but apart from the fact that it was a lot more expensive, I'm afraid I had instilled into me in my youth, by parents who had lived through the great depression and two world wars, that you avoid waste. And replacing an entire unit when all that needs replacing is the diaphragm, constitutes waste, especially since the diaphragm is readily removed by removing a spring clip - don't even need any tools or to take it off the vehicle.

I have just ordered a diaphragm from England, having been unable to find one here - complete valve, yes, but not the diaphragm. Complete valve costs $44, diaphragm $6 plus about the same paostage. Postage for the valve would be about $10

John

After I got it going last night I went for a test drive, with the intention of adjusting the idling when it warmed up - but by the time I got back it was refusing to idle again, stopped and refused to start. So today I started looking at it again. I had had the carbie apart in town, and found no problems, so I decided it must be electrical, and went over the entire ignition system with a fine tooth comb. Cleaned and gapped the plugs, dressed and set the points, tried another condenser, checked the coil, checked distributor plate earthing, checked primary circuit, checked coil lead, checked timing.

Eventually decided it had to be fuel, so pulled the carburetter to bits again (this time on a level surface, out of the sun, and with a set of steps). It seems that this problem was self inflicted. The screws holding the emulsion block were loose. I pulled it apart and checked everything anyway, and reassembled it making sure everything was tight this time. It then started and ran normally, went for a drive and when warm adjusted the idling. Now idling better than it has for some time - there are four splits in the PVC diaphragm, and it would seem that the last one to develop was the last straw.

John

Change the coil I had the sane problem on my 2A many years ago. Like you I was convinced it was fuel. Instead it was a faulty coil.
Lindsay.

Hi John

Have you tried a vacuum gauge to see what the manifold is doing at idle.

Should read 0 if it stalls !!!
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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi John

Have you tried a vacuum gauge to see what the manifold is doing at idle.

Should read 0 if it stalls !!!
.

I don't have a vacuum gauge. The problem is now solved, operating without the PCV and with both hoses blanked off until I get the new diaphragm. I have ordered a new set of points and a condenser, although I don't think they are needed at present, but holding spares would be a good idea.

John

Hi John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I don't have a vacuum gauge.

Some of the early Holden Commodores had a vacuum gauge that's easily pulled out, and can be rebuilt into a glass faced box.
They have a large face that's easy to see and the air line can be a piece of windscreen washer tubing.

The problem is now solved, operating without the PCV and with both hoses blanked off until I get the new diaphragm. I have ordered a new set of points and a condenser, although I don't think they are needed at present, but holding spares would be a good idea.John

I had the exact same problems as with your Land Rover, with a series three belonging to a uncle of mine.
Did find all of those faults, but with the addition of finding a earth wire broken, the one that runs from the points plate to the distributor body.
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