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Thread: Project Rhodi

  1. #11
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    This is where it becomes interesting. As a one man band pulling apart the mechano set is easy enough, it's the weighty aspects that become a challenge for an individual.......... Who needs a home gym when you've got a Landy to work on
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  2. #12
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    And the closing of this chapter as we get to the bare essentials....
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  3. #13
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    Hi all, well i cracked on with inspecting the chassis and preparing it. It never ceases to amaze me what some bush mechanics try to get away with........ As you can see i took a chisel and hammer and prodded the usual suspect areas for rust and holes and behold........ look what i came across! The previous owner had done a half hearted repair job of the left rear/tail cross member which incidentally had rusted all the way to the rear left spring hanger. To fill the hole he had taken a good sized socket and welded it in place and then placed a whole lot of body filler on top of that.
    Anyway always up for a challenge
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  4. #14
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    Interested in hearing what the experts have to say for the number stamped on the rear right spring hanger support ~ 360
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  5. #15
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    Hi All, well i have completed the assessment of the rear cross member and it is not worth salvaging. I have already ordered a new part that will hopefully arrive this week....

  6. #16
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    Still here

    Boy does time fly!

    Will be providing an update soon!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhodi View Post
    Boy does time fly!

    Will be providing an update soon!
    Hope so, I cant hold my breathe much longer
    1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
    1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
    1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
    1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
    2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
    1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
    1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
    2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000

    You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!

  8. #18
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    Jun 2011
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    Well the cross member arrived and i set about looking at the best approach to measuring the cutback along the chassis rails.
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  9. #19
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    Jun 2011
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    Once measured, ensuring enough overlap for a strong joint i proceeded to cut the back end off. I decided to also put in some puddle welds just to add to the strength of the joint. I then used the rear tub as a jig to set the right height and length of the required overlap.
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  10. #20
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    And the puddle weld and new section welded in. In welding the rear unit in i ensured that the weld along the corners penetrated down to the old section.
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