Thread: S2A Brake and Steering Issue

1. Could be your suggestions, but most likely is a small amount of oil on the linings, either from brake cylinder or hub seal - enough to be "sticky" but not slippery. I makes the powder from lining wear into a sticky substance.

Less likely, incorrect assembly of springs, or rusty drums - quite likely if rarely used and in a damp climate.

2. Check carefully for lost movement at all points, particularly for movement of either relay arm on the shaft, and for loose tie rod ends. There should be less than 5cm (usually a lot less) total free play measured at the rim of the steering wheel. Next check for free play in axle location, front and rear - spring bushes, broken leaves, loose U-bolts.

The raise both front wheels off the ground on stands. Check for free play in wheel bearings, swivels. Also check for stiff steering. With the wheels off the ground, should be very light and smooth over the full lock to lock (good time to check stop settings tpo just clear springs/chassis). If it isn't, disconnect at the top of the relay (easier than at the box) to check there is no resistance in the box (has it got any oil in it?). Then disconnect either end of the drag link and check the turning resistance of the relay - should be as in book. Similarly disconnect track rod and check swivel preload.

Other possibilities are soft tyres, incorrect toe-in, excessive tyre width and/or offset.

Hope this helps,

John

The good oil is your friend!

Drum Brakes http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/5...tml#post847398

What should the resistance of the steering relay be?

Originally Posted by bacicat2000

What should the resistance of the steering relay be?

According to my S2A manual; resistance to rotation must be not less than 5.4 kg and not greater than 7.3 kg measured on a spring-balance,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by chazza

According to my S2A manual; resistance to rotation must be not less than 5.4 kg and not greater than 7.3 kg measured on a spring-balance,

Cheers Charlie

That will apply to all Series relays. The exact figure is probably not too critical, but any higher than this probably means there is no oil in it, and any lower probably indicates serious problems such as bushes rotating in the housing because they are rusted solid onto the shaft!

John

Originally Posted by bacicat2000

What should the resistance of the steering relay be?

In simple terms, you have no chance of turning the relay by hand! I had vague steering and a combination of tightening the adjuster on the side of the steering box , new tie rod ends and a new relay (not too expensive and all advice is to never pull one apart unless you really know what you are doing - a very large spring inside can cause real injury if not fully controlled) . Now am within the sort of tolerances suggested but compared to a modern vehicle it is still pretty vague, Novices like me need to teach themself not to over correct when driving and it all seems to work fine!

Originally Posted by happydad59

In simple terms, you have no chance of turning the relay by hand! Once the relay levers are fitted and oil added you should be able to turn it by hand - it only needs about 7 to 10 kg of oomph.

...all advice is to never pull one apart unless you really know what you are doing - a very large spring inside can cause real injury if not fully controlled) .

Pulling one apart is safe and very easy, if the safety instructions in the manual are followed; and that is to hold the unit in a vice and tie a cloth bag over the bottom, so that the innards of the unit fall into it when knocked down from above. On my S3 I tied a cloth shopping bag over the front cross-member.

Getting the assembly back into the relay is the scary bit - having used two methods one on my S1 and the other on the S3, I offer the following advice:
1. The S1 manual shows how to make two clips, which can be installed over the compressed spring whilst it is held in a vice. This worked for me the first time but at the second attempt the assembly started to slip and come apart. After slowly opening the vice and changing into a fresh pair of jocks, I read the S3 manual.

2. The S2 and S3 manual show a special tool that can be made to compress the spring into the relay itself and which can be safely locked in place, whilst the top bush is installed. This worked well for me; however; despite weighing 85kg, I was only just heavy enough to get the tool fully home and locked in place - it took several attempts.

I would do one again, especially as there was not much wrong with either of mine and repairs cost about $10 ea,

Cheers Charlie

I stand corrected