Thread: Right is wrong

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

its for both the left and the right side...

left side if you have the front mounted brake pipes
right side if you have the rear mounted pipes.

Mirror image it for the other side

Not quite with you....

The larger holes are spaced differently and the holes for the brake pipe clips are in a different position.

The one on top was fitted, the one now fitted came off another Series III SWB. Are you saying one is for LWB and the other for SWB ?






Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

The larger holes are spaced differently and the holes for the brake pipe clips are in a different position.
The one on top was fitted, the one now fitted came off another Series III SWB. Are you saying one is for LWB and the other for SWB ?

Hi Colin

The 80" was installed in front of the housing and from the 86" onwards, behind the housing.

The left and right depends on the placement of the check straps.
On a long wheel base the check straps are between the chassis and the springs so the plates are reversed from left to right to as they would have been on a short wheel base.
The idea of those plates was to stop the check straps wearing into the brake lines, but the height of the holes where they are situated in respect of the centre line of the axle housing probably doesn't matter except for getting a matching pair, the 'P' saddles could be mounted facing down on the plate with the high hole and vicky verker for the low holes.
The larger holes may have been locating holes from when they were manufactured.
I must look at a S3 Salisbury diff housing and see if those plates are different to the ones on a 2A LWB rover style diff back end.
Coop will be back tomorrow so I will try and pinch a look at his series 3 Long wheel base 'Sandy'.
.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi Colin

The 80" was installed in front of the housing and from the 86" onwards, behind the housing.

The left and right depends on the placement of the check straps.
On a long wheel base the check straps are between the chassis and the springs so the plates are reversed from left to right to as they would have been on a short wheel base.
The idea of those plates was to stop the check straps wearing into the brake lines, but the height of the holes where they are situated in respect of the centre line of the axle housing probably doesn't matter except for getting a matching pair, the 'P' saddles could be mounted facing down on the plate with the high hole and vicky verker for the low holes.
The larger holes may have been locating holes from when they were manufactured.
I must look at a S3 Salisbury diff housing and see if those plates are different to the ones on a 2A LWB rover style diff back end.
Coop will be back tomorrow so I will try and pinch a look at his series 3 Long wheel base 'Sandy'.
.

I had a look at my Series II LWB earlier. Each plate only has one hole for a single brake pipe clamp, toward the top of the plate on the outside.

I think I'm becoming a rivet counter.....rivet, rivet.


Colin

I always ignored the holes....

Just put the shield in place ,worked out where the pipe wanted to be, marked the plate pulled it drilled it then put the pipe mounting fastner in place.

if you nutters want to play rivet counters you need to get away from all things british and start working with jap stuff, the poms tend to do just whatever the hell is going to work in that instance, with what they have to hand on the day within a tolerance they feel comfortable withat the time If they can make it happen and if they cant they just accept what they can do.

There IS a reason that they dont hold concourse comps on landies, its not because they are never clean enough its that no 2 are the same (from factory) and no-one has EVER set a standard for the acceptable leakage rates or flicker rates of the lighting.

The real reasons the germans couldnt beat the poms in the war was because its very hard to come up with a tactic for disabling machines when all the internal parts keep moving around so you cant tell if your going to hit something vital or not.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I always ignored the holes....

Just put the shield in place ,worked out where the pipe wanted to be, marked the plate pulled it drilled it then put the pipe mounting fastner in place.

if you nutters want to play rivet counters you need to get away from all things british and start working with jap stuff, the poms tend to do just whatever the hell is going to work in that instance, with what they have to hand on the day within a tolerance they feel comfortable withat the time If they can make it happen and if they cant they just accept what they can do.

There IS a reason that they dont hold concourse comps on landies, its not because they are never clean enough its that no 2 are the same (from factory) and no-one has EVER set a standard for the acceptable leakage rates or flicker rates of the lighting.

The real reasons the germans couldnt beat the poms in the war was because its very hard to come up with a tactic for disabling machines when all the internal parts keep moving around so you cant tell if your going to hit something vital or not.

Wow, my attempt at humour was lost there.....


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

I think I'm becoming a rivet counter.....rivet, rivet

but what type of rivets should you count?

a little light reading

Originally Posted by incisor

but what type of rivets should you count?

a little light reading

On a Series I there are bifurcated, tubular and solid with maybe a few different head types, later models have blind (pop) rivets but not tubular & bifurcated.
The problem is knowing when solid changed to blind etc. etc.

Enough of this, I must get back to work.......


Colin

If you drive a S3 or later do you count spot welds?