Thread: Introducing DaOot

All sounds good, perhaps it's adjustment of the pedal connection to the MC....?
that's required.

I don't remember the pedal travel in my own case, but I do remember the slightest pressure brought the brakes on.

Anyway cobber, your on the right track, absolutely well Done......!!

Norm.

Originally Posted by Cannon

I'm guessing it's an adjustment thing now but I can't work out how to get it right as the adjuster affects only one shoe & the other shoe would return under spring pressure leaving the pedal travel there to push it out again.

This is not how it works at all
The spring pulls the shoe back onto the adjuster & the other shoe appears to just "relax" off the drum.

I do like the long travel though as it's a more gradual application of the brakes.

If you stomp on them emergency stop style without pumping the travel is still long but the brakes work a treat.

The booster is doing it's job.

I've just got to sort the headlights now.

I was using high beam to test drive tonight & the right hand one blew so now I've got no low beam & only one high beam

I had HB selected with the floor switch when I turned them on with the dash switch & the right one blew.

It appears they may be a halogen replacement but I'll have a closer look tomorrow.

Any suggestions on a replacement switch??

I don't think the headlights are halogen.

Does anyone know the details of the type of light I need for a halogen upgrade?

I may as well upgrade if I'm replacing.

Here's the existing sealed beam light:

Original equipment on Australian 2/2a did not use sealed beams. You can replace the lights with any standard 7" light. it is a good idea to fit a headlight relay - I mounted mine on the radiator support. behind the grille.

John

Originally Posted by Cannon

I don't think the headlights are halogen.

Does anyone know the details of the type of light I need for a halogen upgrade?

I may as well upgrade if I'm replacing.

Here's the existing sealed beam light:

Looking at the 60W / 50W, wattage, I would say that sealed beam is about the correct wattage for a standard Land Rover S2A wiring switch setup, they would perform a lot better showing a stronger illumination, if you fit head light relays to take current direct from the battery and then use the existing wiring to switch the relays.
You'll find that by fitting a relay you will achieve a lot better light using the existing headlights, than if trying higher wattage headlight without a relay and you run the risk of heating / cooking, some part of the circuit due to the increase in current.

I then prefer the 'New Era" brand of relays and then I double the relays up so there is one contact per filament, that is done by fitting two head light relay units ( one unit per sealed beam ).



The wattage of the headlights can be increased only if the charging circuit is up to it, most of the original generators will not keep the power up to the lights when driving long distances at night, by fitting an alternator, that allows you to up the wattage to say 100W / 90W per sealed beam.

When fitting extra electrical equipment, always install a fuse in the new circuit as close as possible to where power is taken from and calculate the correct amperage size of the fuse required ( don't guess! ).

Another point Wattage is wattage, by changing the lights from standard to a halogen type you are altering the amount of available visible light, standard lights produce a lot more infrared ( heat ) for the same wattage ( power ) rating.
.

Top advice as usual from Arthur and if you put in heavier cable to the lights as well, the brightness will be increased.

Autosparks is a good source for wire of the correct colour,

Cheers Charlie

For what it's worth, I turfed the sealed beams from my Landy eighteen years ago and got units that take H4 halogen bulbs. Been pretty good since.

Originally Posted by Johnno1969

For what it's worth, I turfed the sealed beams from my Landy eighteen years ago and got units that take H4 halogen bulbs. Been pretty good since.

Yeah I'm going to go that way.

I think I'll get a Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kit from Traxide as well.