Thread: Series Brake Bleeding

First step would be to identify where the problem(s) is/are. Clamp off all three brake hoses - you should now have a solid pedal with no movement at all. If you cannot get this by bleeding if necessary at every joint back to the masteer cylinder, then the master cylinder has to be suspect.

Then release and bleed each of the three clamped off sections one at a time. When bleeding, pump the pedal vigorously, to ensure air bubbles are carried along with the fluid.

There are also mechanical problems which may appear to be bleeding problems - incorrect assembly, snail adjusters that are worn smooth and won't stay put, incorrect pushrod adjustment on the master cylinder, and probably others I can't think of at the moment.

John

you may have the leading trailing setup tail end around as well as US snail cams.

Stage 1/county./defender/perentine brake warning

try there for some hints

I assume you have removed pedal free play?

Adjust the shoes so the wheels are locked solid. If there is no air in the system the brake pedal will also be hard.

In many/most cases it is an adjustment issue.

We have just spent ages and ages trying to bleed up an early Series 2 with the CB type master cylinder.

Had success in the end with a pressure bleeder and driving up a steep hill to move the bubbles...

Here's an idea for a cheap pressure bleeder;

The DIY $20 brake bleeder

Good luck!

While I have never had to do this with any brakes (but have clutch), it is possible, in fact easy, to reverse bleed brakes using an oil syringe (new or thoroughly cleaned of any traces of oil!).

I agree with isuzurover that in many cases it is likely to be a mechanical rather than bleeding issue.

John

Thanks everyone, I'm very confident that it's air because we've adjusted all the snail cams up and the pedal goes straight to the floor. Sometimes the front left wheel will just lock up because the snail cam has adjusted itself but all you need to do is reverse a bit or back the adjuster off cause they are worn but that's not the problem. There's lots of air in the system because when I last bled it, it ran low enough in the reservoir (stupid mistake that I never had a problem with before) to let lots of air in, before that I bled the brakes multiple times and it wouldn't get a decent pedal, the closest I got was 3 pumps and the rears would lock up because I clamped the front 2 off. I think I might try reverse bleeding first as something different. I tried the trick of parking it on a really steep hill overnight with the cap off but nothing happened.

I have had success twice on two 2A's, by stamping on the pedal as hard as I could, whilst bleeding the brakes; this was a tip found in the 2A handbook.

I think the velocity of the fluid must be the reason why the air trapped at all the high points gets pushed out. All of the brake cylinders need to be in perfect condition of course,

Cheers Charlie

I normally connect a 6mm fish tank air line on the bleed nipple and take it all the way back to the master cylinder...great if there's no one to pump for you and you get all the air out.
Another trick is to smear copper-slip on the bleed nipple threads and not to open them all the way..
Fit lock plates to the snails and slip a piece of pipe over the pins that the snails act on...