wow $110 is cheap, I am thinking about getting another aluminium 1 or 2 made up
I used to know the guy who made these for the 4x4 shops. Could get them for $110 each, [I think that is what he sells them to the 4x4 shops for] but have lost touch.
Not sure what you mean by "hardened". The aftermarket tanks are made from a single sheet of 1.6 mm steel which is more than adequate. I dragged my 16 gallon tank over rocks for years before I swapped to custom made "chamfered" tanks, to minimise them dragging on rocks.
A single piece of 1.6 mm is much better than the two plate rust magnet design that LR used.
wow $110 is cheap, I am thinking about getting another aluminium 1 or 2 made up
Personlly I would never use an aluminium tank. I have seen plenty of aluminium bits bolted to landies that corrode the steel chassis. Plus the tank design collects dirt at the back of the tank which accelerates this. Add to that the poor fatigue properties of Al compared to steel.
My dad's IIA (now owned by Killer) has a stainless 10-gal tank which I think is a better material option if you are making a custom tank.
We have had one for years without any problems hence the reason I was going to use it again.
What do you think the cost difference would be between a stainless steel and aluminium tank?
Re: Aluminium tanks. Could be more difficult/expensive to get welded if you get a crack develop. Also, as mentioned, there is also the potential problem of electrolytic corrosion.
Re: Aftermarket tanks. There was a discussion elsewhere about the aftermarket tanks having the drain plug in the rear edge rather than the bottom which is better than original.
Any sheetmetal company could make the tanks, the cost would be in producing the initial CAD drawings for the laser cutting.
I have a 16gal aftermarket tank sitting beside my driveway, half full of diesel & water (I must get round to emptying it). The bottom has taken a big impact but still holds fuel OK.
Were the originals resistance welded ? What I mean is are the side panels recessed in and there is a serrated line top & bottom of the seam where they have been resistance welded between 2 rollers.
The aftermarket ones are fully welded and made from 6 separate panels, that's a fair bit of work for $110.....
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Last edited by gromit; 6th August 2013 at 12:52 PM. Reason: More info & link added
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Colin, your one looks to be an after-market one, the original had at least a 1/2" radius on the lower rear corner.
Ben, my original 16 gallon tank has been soldered all around the edges, but I think a spot-welded lap joint would be asking for trouble. On the S1 they were folded using a double-fold and then soldered. The S1's and probably later cars were made of a lead-coated material called tern-plate (spelling?) in Oz, but my S3 one looks to be galvanised inside,
Cheers Charlie
We used to make 16gal out of a folded sheet for the top/bottom/ends and two sides. Mig welded 1.6mm. You can make another two tanks to go inside the rear wheel arch, in front of the wheels (LWand have the filler neck modded to run a tube back through the bulkhead.
Christ ditching my parents was lousy as he's got all the templates for these things, Fuel tanks, water tanks, overhead consuls and roof cupboards, roof linings plus suspension lift plates (from military version drawings), shackle plates etc. I can do it all but just having templates for tanks is a big help.
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