Thread: What year is my series 2A SWB

243 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: Basic or Station wagon
Wheel base: 88in
Engine: petrol
Model years: 1962-1971
Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
41572 Serial number
C Design: Two significant design modifications
Suffix used from April 1966 till April 1967

Im guessing around 1966.

If you can get gearbox and axle numbers, that could narrow it down a little more.

Originally Posted by mnorv

Hi, I will start with an apology in case I have posted this in the wrong area as I have never used a forum before. I am just starting work on what I believeto be a series 2A short wheel base soft top. It was in the family before me soI am not really sure of the age. I believe that this can be determined by thechassis number ( 24341572 C) or the engine number (525 and I think 18C). I have looked at a few threads and couldnot make any headway so I figured it was time to learn how to use the Land Roverknowledge that was out there.

Thanks in advance.

Numbers are wrong.

It can't have the fourth digit "4" if it has suffix "C"

Likewise the engine 525 is also wrong, it should be 252 and if the fourth digit is "5" then the suffix should be "H"

Thankyou, I will check the numbers again once I get home, in a week or so, was working off some photos on my phone. 1966 does seem to fit, as we know it was puchased from the orignal owner in the early 70's.

I am guessing I will find the gearbox number on the housing, where do I look for the axil numbers?

You need to take the centre seat panel out to see the gearbox number as its on the top rhs of the box. Depending on your ability to see round corners you might need to remove the floor and gearbox housing. How badly do you want to know about your gearbox? Its only really important if you need to fix it or ascertain originality.

Engine number is on the left side of the engine (from drivers POV) just on a small flat bit of the engine between the water pump and the exhaust manifold

Axle numbers should be on the long side of the axle between the diff and the hub. Depending on the layers of paint and muck these may not be found very easily

Originally Posted by mnorv

Thankyou, I will check the numbers again once I get home, in a week or so, was working off some photos on my phone. 1966 does seem to fit, as we know it was puchased from the orignal owner in the early 70's.

I am guessing I will find the gearbox number on the housing, where do I look for the axil numbers?

If the number is 24311572C then the original sale was to T.E. Evans on 7/6/67, the original engine was 25276653H.

"C" suffix engines were mostly in 109" vehicles but changed to "D" suffix before the 2525 preliminary sequence.

Diana

Thanks everyone, The only reason I was going to get the other numbers was toconfirm the info. It will not be real hard to get, as all the panels are offnow, with the firewall to come off for blasting and paint this time home,hopefully...

The vehicle is original throughout, was our farm ute for so needs a fairamount of TLC however due to the rural environment there is nearly no rust andthe engine is still a runner with 77k original miles.

If you have time would love to know what you think of the game plan in caseI have things back to front. The plan at present is to remove the fire wall andsend away to be basted and painted original colour. Then with the engine andgearbox left in, I figured I would remove them and give them a good clean up,was not thinking of splitting anything as there does not appear to be anyleaks, still has good compression etc.

Once the motor and box was out, I was going to do, the four corners, brakes,bearings, suspension etc. and any chassis repairs, need to replace one crossmember due to stump and log damage.

From there I was going to put the motor, box, fire wall, and radiator backin, with the intention of replacing all wiring as it is starting to show theage, and master brake and clutch, This would then give me a rolling chassisthat I can move as required.

From then on it would be a little slower with panels etc., the vehicle isnearly dead straight, except for when I was about 9 learning to drive anddented the front right guard, I feel it should be repairable, if I can findsomeone that knows aluminium work. As it is not that bad. I am currentlythinking that I might have a go at spraying it myself, just so I can say I didit. Have sprayed a few bikes etc. over the years but never a car, and neveraluminium.

Open to comments about the plan, pro and cons would be muchly appreciated.