Thread: Oil seal help

The book says to "press out oil seal", but a brass drift will almost certainly work. The "metal ring" is part of the oil seal; they all used to be like that!

John

brass drift & hit it a lot

which way should i hit it? down towards the front of the housing or flip it over and hit down ?

cheers again

Originally Posted by SII Josh

which way should i hit it? down towards the front of the housing or flip it over and hit down ?

cheers again

It comes out away from the transfer case, towards the prop shaft. If it is hard to move, try heating it up by putting it in boiling water for a few minutes - the alloy expands more than the steel does. (but this should not be necessary)

John

A good trick that I was shown was to drill a hole in the rim of the seal and use a panel beaters slide hammer to pull it out. You screw the tip of the slide hammer into the hole and the seal comes out easily with a couple of slides.

cheers for the help people, i took it in to work and we put it through the robo wash (parts cleaner that washes parts at 80 degrees temp) machine a few times to get it warm then we put it in the press machine and slowly pushed it out.

first time i have seen a leather seal on the landy too

Originally Posted by SII Josh

.....
first time i have seen a leather seal on the landy too

Almost certainly they all were when it was assembled! May be the only original one there.

Leather ones seem to seal better, but will harden and leak if not used regularly.

John

Check your drive flange hasn't been badly grooved - no new seal in the world will stop a leak if it is, you'll need to renew it or fit a Speedi-Sleeve.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting quietly), plus 14 other parts/project cars (1xS2, 6xS2As, 7xS3s).