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Thread: Can't seem to bleed the clutch enough please help

  1. #11
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    Dave has posted the 9" pressure plate. I posted the 9.5" versions.

  2. #12
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    The 9" was the standard 2a clutch, the 9.5 optional equipment. But the 9.5" is far more popular as a replacement, and raises the probability of confusing the pressure plate with the far more common S3 one as in isuzurover's post.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #13
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    Hey guys, thanks for all your input. Firstly let me correct something, I thought it was a different pressure plate but my old man said that it's the same one which the gearbox guy had reconditioned (can that be done with a pressure plate) and it does have the three big fingers rather than the many spines, thanks for the pictures isuzurover and blknight.aus.

    OK so after confusing you all with that and leading you in all in the wrong direction I'm going to have to apologise so, I'm sorry for that.

    I'll list the variables in case you guys can spot anything else that may contribute to the clutch not engaging properly.

    Gearbox was recon
    Pressure plate was recon
    New clutch (said it was different thickness, has been identified as a porky)
    New slave cylinder (could this have less travel)(slave cyclinder is bolted below the housing rather than on top like the manual but it worked like this before)

    I'm running out of ideas and patience now but i apprecaite all your comments.

  4. #14
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    OK, so the old pressure plate was reused, with a new clutch plate? Are you sure the new clutch plate was a 9" one to match your 9" pressure plate?

    What was done to the pressure plate to "recondition" it?

  5. #15
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Two possibilities occur to me.

    1. The clutch release levers are adjustable, and must be adjusted if anything is done to the pressure plate (see manual)

    2. The clutch release fork is splined on to the release shaft, and must be correctly aligned on assembly (see manual)

    Either of these done incorrectly could cause the symptoms.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    ...

    2. The clutch release fork is splined on to the release shaft, and must be correctly aligned on assembly (see manual)

    ...
    Is it splined? I thought there was just a flat on the shaft (don't have manual in front of me).

  7. #17
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Is it splined? I thought there was just a flat on the shaft (don't have manual in front of me).
    I do have a manual - it is shown splined and with instructions how to line up the hole. Of course, it may have changed in late production.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #18
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    OK, the gearbox mechanic got the clutch plate and pressure plate back and said they were within the allowed tolerances. So now we have to embark on the third option which is to take the front off the gearbox and move something over on it's splines. He said that he would need to move it three splines over as one wouldn't be enough.

    He is coming over Friday and I am having time off work so I hope I'll be finally driving my car again.

  9. #19
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    Smile

    OK it's all in and running again

    Man what a journey it's been, he took the front off the gearbox and like JDNSW said there are instructions on how to set the clutch mechanism with a 1/16th thick rod or something. So by following the manual we installed the gearbox and away we went.

    I spent the rest of the night putting the floor and transmission tunnel back in.

    There is still 1 job that needs to be done and that is in relation to the roods that join the gearbox and the clutch lever. The holes that the clevis pins go into are worn and there is quite a lot of play. I think once we drill the holes out and put larger pins in the clutch won't be so stiff.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by matpoli View Post
    The holes that the clevis pins go into are worn and there is quite a lot of play. I think once we drill the holes out and put larger pins in the clutch won't be so stiff.
    Not a good idea to drill them - weld the holes and then centre punch and drill. Drilling them over-size will just weaken what is left,

    Cheers Charlie

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