Clutch Slave Cylinder

**grey_ghost** · 3rd January 2014, 07:20 AM

Hi All,

I want to remove the bracket that holds the Clutch Slave Cylinder. I want to do this so that I can - remove all of the dirt/grime/grease, clean it up, paint it and replace the old clutch slave cylinder with a new one...

I have had a look at it - and excuse the terminology because I don't know what I am doing here - and I think that what I need to do is:

1) Remove the split pin in the circled photo
2) Then remove the domed pin

I believe that I will then be able to remove the shaft and away I go?

There is currently nothing holding the bracket/entire assembly apart from the rod that comes out of the gearbox. I think (and hopefully Gavin remembers) that when we removed the engine, that this bracket is bolted onto the gearbox bell housing. Either way - the entire assembly is just sitting there - and the only thing that is stopping it's removal is the rod that goes into the gearbox.

Am I on the right track? And if so - how the hell do I remove it - I simply cannot get my hands in there - either from the top or from the bottom!

I also assume that the very long nut that holds one side of the clutch slave cylinder is non standard? Looks like a home made job - I can't see why it needs to be this length and not a standard nut/bolt...?

I also want to remove the prop shaft - but the clutch slave assembly is in the way, so I want to get this out first allowing easier access to the nuts/bolts of the prop shaft! (I have already removed the other end)

As always - any help is greatly appreciated!

**chazza** · 3rd January 2014, 08:28 AM

That object you have circled looks to be a coach bolt, which has been put there by someone who should have bought the correct part. The proper part is a hardened-steel pin, which is driven into the assembly - if the pin is not hardened it will break in service and leave you with no clutch.

You can remove the coach-bolt by centre-punching and drilling the head off and then knocking the remnants through the assembly with a pin punch. You may find when you get it off the car, that the oval tube that sits around the clutch-release shaft, has worn holes; if so, buy a new one as they are hardened-steel as well.

You are correct about the absurdly long fastener holding the slave cylinder; it too can be removed to give you more room and replaced with the correct length fastener.

You would find it a great deal easier for yourself if you acquire a parts book, which will show you how the assemblies fit together but also of course, has the part nos so that you can Google the number and find suppliers

Good luck - I found this assembly the only cow on the whole of my S1, which took ages to assemble, as access is next to impossible,

Cheers Charlie

**JDNSW** · 3rd January 2014, 02:28 PM

Pretty much as Chazza says. Long longnose pliers help.

John

**Carzee** · 3rd January 2014, 04:42 PM

A handy parts drawing etc; Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts - Series II, IIA, III, Clutch, Slave Cylinder & Throwout Assembly

actual numbers... well its not straightforward because the numbers get retired and new numbers implemented -annoyingly- every decade or so.

The LR Parts Catalogue (S2 S2A Bonneted Control) is 605957 (Dec 1968)

**Carzee** · 3rd January 2014, 04:59 PM

Here's the pin for the "clutch cross shaft" on the inside of that grommet, I think: 536803 - Pin for Clutch Cross Shaft 1948 - 71. Original Equipment

**Carzee** · 4th January 2014, 06:24 AM

This morning I took pics of my G'box which is a Suffix E, and you can see the pins etc.

The inside pin on my G'box is a substitute/'bush mechanic' part but the outer pin is the proper pin 536803.

If you want to buy some pins I could do with a couple as well for my build -- and we could split the freight?

R536803 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube' pin X 2
R561661 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube'

So, in this case, the original part numbers from the 1968 book are still valid.

**grey_ghost** · 4th January 2014, 07:08 AM

Hi Carzee,

So just confirming - you want me to order for YOU:

R536803 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube' pin X 2

And for ME:
R536803 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube' pin X 2
R561661 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube'

Is that correct?

Cheers,
Tom.

**grey_ghost** · 4th January 2014, 07:11 AM

Hi All,

Well with a lot of mucking about - I managed to get the split pin out and here is what it looks like:

So I think that I will replace the 2 pins as well as the connecting tube - the connecting tube is very loose and not circular like the one shown in this thread by carzee... It is out of shape..

**Carzee** · 4th January 2014, 07:30 AM

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

Hi Carzee,

So just confirming - you want me to order for YOU:

R536803 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube' pin X 2

And for ME:
R536803 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube' pin X 2
R561661 Slave clutch cross shaft 'connecting tube'

Is that correct?

Cheers,
Tom.

Yes thats it, just 2 pins.

That would be excellent. The 'tube' is a load of cash for what it is. Typical.

**wrinklearthur** · 4th January 2014, 07:44 AM

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

- the connecting tube is very loose and not circular like the one shown in this thread by carzee... It is out of shape..

Those connecting sleeves act like a universal joint when the gearbox moves on the rubber mounts, if the ends of the sleeve weren't shaped like a oval, you would have a situation where the clutch shaft would bind.

So looking at each end of the sleeve, the ends are meant to be oval in shape and the oval ends are shaped so they are 90° to each other.
The holes for the locating pins then go across the narrow part of the oval, those pins are meant to be a neat sliding fit in their holes.

I was thinking because the series two has the clutch slave cylinder attached to the bell housing the sleeve may not need to be having oval ends as the axis of the clutch mechanism shaft doesn't vary, so for a series one this sleeve needs to have oval ends and may not apply to a series two onwards.
.

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