Thread: Looking to buy a series 2

Different types, 1958-72:-

Body - two doors, most with tailgate at the rear, station wagons have a hardtop and side opening door at the back, but these can be fitted to a basic model. May have two bench seats in the back - optional on all models.

Basic model is full canvas top. Also ute/cab. (watch for missing filler plate where the cab overlaps the rear load area. )

Engines:- 2.25l petrol or diesel - but 1958 petrol 2l (now very rare) and 1958-61 2l diesel (even rarer - usually replaced by later engine).

Drive line:- Gearbox and transfer are all four speeds and two speed transfer, all interchangeable, but there were numerous changes through the years, including ratios and the size of the transfer intermediate shaft. Late boxes are best, all boxes identified by a letter suffix on the serial number of the box. Except for very late and very rare boxes, synchromesh only on 3 and 4. Clutch may be either 9" with coil springs or 9.5" with a diaphragm spring. Diesel has a different clutch the same size. All diffs are 4.7:1 and interchangeable, but are also interchangeable with RRC and Disco1 diffs 3.54:1.

Optional equipment:- a long list, some of the more common ones - bonnet spare carrier, heater (recirculating), hand throttle (common), tropical roof, turn indicators (standard after about 1967), overdrive, free wheel hubs, 5.5" wheels and 7.50x16 tyres (standard was 5" and 6.00x16), seat belts, deluxe bonnet with rounded front edge, steering damper (standard in Australia from about 1969).

Major milestones in production:- 1960 screw type vent handles change to lever type; 1961 2-> 2a and diesel to 2.25; 1967 (not quite all at the same time) Electrics go from positive to negative earth and instrument panel changes, Steering wheel changes from wire spoked to three spoked, wipers go from two separate units to cable type with motor in LH glovebox, Carburetter changed from Solex to Zenith.

Common modifications:- Holden engine. Various models fitted, conversions vary from factory standard to awful, some adapters were not very accurately made and cause early gearbox failure. Non-standard carburetter, usually Stromberg off a Holden. Not ideal. Common to fit bits off other model Series 2,2a,3 Landrovers, with many parts fully interchangeable. Most early ones have the battery polarity changed to negative earth, and many have had the generator replaced by an alternator (easiest is to fit the bracket and alternatoir from a Series 3)

Common problems:- Rust. Look at firewall (bulkhead) and chassis, especially round the rear crossmember. Butcher standard chassis and body repairs - many will have spent years as farm hacks, and show it.

Springs - look for shot bushes, badly rusted and spread springs, leaking shocks etc.

Brakes - nothing unusual, but unless it is regularly used, expect to have to replace hydraulic cylinders, hoses, and brake shoes. Check for hub and transfer case oil leaks onto brake shoes, needing seal replacement.

Clutch - don't be surprised if you have to replace the clutch hydraulics - neither a big job nor expensive. The clutch itself is unlikely to need immediate replacement, but watch for sheared pins on the coupling between the bellcrank shaft from the slave cylinder and the release fork shaft.

Electrics. - The electrics are mostly unfused, and don't be surprised if bits are burnt out. Hence likely bodged wiring.

Speedo - apart from the obvious broken cable, speedo faults are commonly caused by the big nut on the output shaft being loose - the speedo drive gear is only clamped by this, with no positive engagement on the shaft.


Probably a lot more could be added, but this should do for a start. Be a good idea to read as many threads as you can in the 2/2a forums, especially those covering rebuilds.

Hope this helps.

John

Hi Ando

A few things that spring to mind. I am sure others will reply in due course with other suggestions.
I would say rust is the biggest issue, especially rust in the bulkhead (or firewall). Areas to check are around the vents and down the pillars where the door hinges mount. These areas can be replaced/repaired, though if the bulkhead needs to be removed this is a large job (which as you pull more bits off seems to increase as you find more stuff that needs doing!)
Check for rust in the door frames and chassis. The worst spots for the chassis are the rear crossmember and front dumb irons.
Replacement crossmembers, or even full chassis can be obtained, as well as bulkheads and doors, it just depends on your budget and/or ability to repair rust.
Cheers, Martin

Thanks guys for your detailed responses. Really really appreciated!!!!!!

Will be sure to post up some pics of the new girl...Once i find her

Cheers