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Thread: Series 2 brakes.... sob, sob

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    melbourne
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    Angry Series 2 brakes.... sob, sob

    OK, here we go. I am rebuilding (not restoring) my 1961 SWB. It has a Holden engine and as such it has LWB brakes in the front and SWB in the rear. all well and dandy but they have never been great by normal standards, good by LR standards though, only had to pump them once each time I used them.............


    Now, as my daughter is getting this beast in my will, (she likes it a lot) it has to be spot on. I am up to the brakes and have replaced the master cylinder (CB type), slave cylinders; flexible hoses; some pipes and brake shoes. Drums are a year old.


    I am at wits end trying to bleed this thing..!! Whoever designed them well, say no more. Is there anyone in the Melbourne area (eastern subs preferably but willing to travel) who has some form of expertise and an iron will with these hydraulics from Satan.......????

  2. #2
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    Try reverse bleeding them from the bleed nipples.
    It has always worked for me.
    Phil.

  3. #3
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    Apr 2011
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    Whyalla S.A.
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    I know this is a stupid question, have you got a LWB master cylinder? I have been caught out twice with a SWB master on a LWB set up, it doesn't have the capacity to fill the LWB front slaves, it doesn't matter how much you bleed and adjust, it wont give a firm pedal before bottoming out.

  4. #4
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    Hey Reg,

    I haven't had trouble bleeding my brakes, but I did manage to stuff up where to put shoes - that made the whole setup feel pretty average. Check out some of the threads on here. There is some really good advise to be found.

    I found starting at the rear for bleeding worked well (i.e., longest line first). Use 2 people.

    Hope you get it sorted

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    collie, w.a.
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    gday mate;

    what i have had to do with the series 2 brakes when i rebuilt them was to back off all wheel cyl. and clamp the back from the front. then bleed with 2 people as normal. worked for me. as they where a right ba****d to do. hope ya get it fixed cheers wally

  6. #6
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    melbourne
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    Mark, you may well be right, I did buy a new master cylinder which I noted was smaller than the one I had on there. I realised then that it was a SWB cylinder and looking at my list I wrote out for the shop, the "L" looked like and "S" so it is my fault. I put it on and hoped for the best but I might just bite the bullet and get the LWB one.


    also, there is no such thing as a stupid question..


    Phil, how does one bleed from the slave cylinders?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    I have done the following succesfully:

    1. start at the LHR wheel
    2. clamp off both front rubber brake hoses
    3. get yourself a large syringe and fill it with brake fluid
    4. open and half empty the MC resevoir
    5. attach the syringe via a rubber hose to the LHR bleed nipple
    6. open the bleed nipple
    7. squeeze the syringe forcing brake fluid (and any air) back to the MC resevoir
    8. close the bleed nipple
    9. move on to the RHR wheel
    10. Refill the syringe and half empty the MC again
    11. continue until all wheel cylinders are bled.
    12. Make sure the wheel cylinder you are bleeding is isolated by clamping off the others while you are bleeding

    This method also removes any air trapped in the MC

    Hope this helps

    Phil.
    Last edited by Phil B; 30th May 2014 at 09:07 AM. Reason: typo

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Narrogin WA
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    Provided everything else is right; stamping on the pedal as hard as possible, is the method which works for me when bleeding. Also recommended by Rover,

    Cheers Charlie

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Thanks Phil B, i'll give it a go next weekend. cheers

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