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Usually don't care what people do to their cars. However since this is steering related and you've got to disassemble everything anyway ,I just like to point out that the steering levers should be fastened with studs ,one of which is thicker to prevent any movement, and not bolts. .W.
Well spotted!Quote:
Originally Posted by B.S.F.Nut
John
Should the tie rods be on top as well????????
or doesn't it matter?
I think they are right. I changed them all the other day on this vehicle and they all work fine where they are. Took a few blows to get the tapers unseated so I'm guessing they were right. I wouldn't have thought you could put them in upside down to be honest.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cannon
If the backing plates have to come off you could replace them with twin leading shoe front brakes off a 109. I have a set I removed when going to 3" front brakes from a 6 cylinder you can have for free if you're interested. They need new shoes and hydraulics but the backing plates are sound.
cheers
Phin
I Think the whole assembly's on the wrong side.
The steering arm should be on the bottom.
It is on mine:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...14/06/1298.jpg
Steering arms were moved from the top to the bottom during Series 2 production. Depending on when the axle was made, either could be correct for that axle (which may not be the one that it had when it left the factory).
It was about the same time that the top swivel bearing changed from a spring loaded tapered bush to the railko bush. Also, at the same time, the size of the studs was increased, I think from 5/16" to 3/8". As mentioned above, it is very important that one of the studs be the special fitted stud to prevent any possibility of movement.
John
:TakeABow::TakeABow::TakeABow: :)