So the seatbox is out finally, do I need to disconnect every thing or can I just unbolt the transfer case from the gearbox leaving it in place?
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So the seatbox is out finally, do I need to disconnect every thing or can I just unbolt the transfer case from the gearbox leaving it in place?
You can either pull the whole thing out in one go (gearbox + T-case + overdrive) as I usually do, or separate the units and lift them out one by one.
I have modified my gearbox crossmember to unbolt, so dropping the whole lot out is the easiest option - then I can work on it on the bench from there.
If you are lifting everything out you may want to remove it piece by piece.
I think removing the gearbox is one of the worst jobs on a Land Rover. I did mine a few months ago and although all the bolts were only a few months old it was still a really time consuming job - there are so many bolts holding in the floor and seatbox! Once I'd done that I was able to lift the gearbox out on my own. It was pretty heavy but not impossibly so (and I'm not exactly super-strong). Worth replacing your gearbox mounts when you do this job - they are often in need of replacement.
I've hit an impass, not quite sure how to start it what to undo first, and how much I have to take out to replace the gearbox.
That and my boys act up everytime I think the afternoon is free.
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Simplest is to follow the procedure in the workshop manual.
But basically, assuming you have the floor and seatbox out,
Disconnect front and rear prop shafts, handbrake linkage, speedo cable, reversing light wiring (if fitted), clutch slave cylinder, unbolt gearbox mounts from chassis, lift engine slightly and support under flywheel housing,
Remove gear lever assembly, support gearbox, remove bell housing to flywheel housing nuts. Move gearbox back until the input shaft clears the clutch, and lift gearbox out.
I don't think I have forgotten anything, but if I have someone will yell.
John
As John said.
Then with an engine hoist the job is quite simple once everything is undone.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/10/430.jpg
Colin
Does the whole thing have to come out or can the transfer case and overdrive unit be left in (still attached to props etc)?
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It may be possible to do this, but certainly not practical. The gearbox needs to come back about 75mm to clear the clutch, but to disconnect from the transfer case the gearbox needs to come forward about 150mm relative to the transfer case, which means the transfer case (or the engine) would have to be moved a total of about 225mm. To move the transfer case this amount you would need to disconnect the drive shafts, gearbox mounts, handbrake - you could leave the speedo cable connected, but that is about the only saving!Quote:
Originally Posted by lowmion
John
Okay, I'll follow the steps that the were very kindly listed and print out the manual that was emailed to me, are there any none normal tools I will need to get before I start:, and any other things I should replace, ie uni joints, and the mounts stated before?
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While you have the box out, unless you know it has been done recently, have a good look at the clutch. Standard 2a clutch is 9", with coil springs in the pressure plate (petrol & diesel different), and the optional one was 9.5" with a diaphragm spring - do not get sold the similar but not interchangeable Series 3 pressure plate!
Whether you need a new pressure plate and flywheel skimming will depend on their condition. Also check the state of the pilot bearing. The release bearing is internal to the gearbox, and does not normally need replacing.
While you have it apart, it may be easier to replace as necessary the output shaft seals, handbrake shoes, universal joints, slave cylinder, clutch release shaft pins, but all of these can be done with the box in place.
John