No drive on Hi Ratio RWD

If you have a broken rear axle, neither rear wheel will turn when the prop shaft is rotated, as the diff will ensure that all drive goes to the side with least resistance.

You can easily confirm that the problem is in the rear axle - chock the front wheels, jack up one rear wheel with the handbrake on. If the wheel is free to rotate you have a broken axle or a broken diff (either is possible - the last time I had this it was the diff).

Having established this, you can tell which side axle simply by removing each half axle, which can be done without even jacking it up. If the first test has confirmed the problem is the rear axle, and neither halfshaft is broken, you will have to remove the diff. This is fairly easy to do - with the halfshafts out, disconnect the prop shaft, drain the oil and remove the nuts holding it on. Careful, its heavy! In this case, I predict you will find the shaft carrying the planet gears is broken, and there will be consequent damage. Fortunately, there should be little problem finding a good secondhand diff.

(All these assume that it is a Rover diff - but if it is a salisbury, it is most unlikely to have broken anything, including axles, and almost all 2/2a Landrovers came with Rover diffs front and rear)

Hope this helps,

John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zulu Delta 534

The golden rule with broken axles is to make sure you replace both sides, never put a new one in with an old one as the old one won't last that long.

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I have broken three long axles in my SIIa. Never replaced or broken a short axle.

Just pull the axles and have a look. The bolts are 3/8 BSF so you need a 5/16 BSW socket.
Aaron

Well am I in deep schtuck & can look forward to something major?


All 4 wheels off the ground, engine running, lo ratio 4WD engaged only front wheels turn & the rear propshaft does NOT turn. Remember I said there was gear noise from the box? One would expect the whirr from a broken axle to come from the back.


Broken output shaft for RWD?

Looking at the gearbox cross section, the only possible failure that could cause this is a broken output shaft in the transfer case. I have never heard of this, but I suppose it is possible.

I would be inclined to drain the transfer case oil and remove the bottom plate, when the situation should become clear.

While this sort of failure probably means the transfer case should be overhauled, it is quite feasible to replace either the transfer case or just the shaft (and probably bearings) without removing the gearbox and in the second case with the transfer case in place.

John

Although unlikely, it may have stripped the spline on the output flange.
Aaron

Thnx JD, you are a treasure! I'll investigate as advised.


However with a siezed series 3 2.25 litre on my engine stand and my spare gear box @ John Needham's workshop undergoing a refurbishment, I think the time has come to revert back to the original 2.25 format. Pity! I was hoping for it to go a bit longer, but, as I learn't the hard way, if it's on the floor get it checked out b4 you put it back in. Here endeth the lesson!


I was pondering this doing the conversion during the resto


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/holden-pow...ersions-4.html




But 2.25 motors were thin on the ground back then! Plus, the electrical probs of going back to a dynamo were considerable. Fortunately, the 2.25 I got was an alternator version.

OK! Before I start removing floors and pans.

I can see how the red lever engages 4WD:

A bit about Gearboxes

Is there a similar mechanism inside the casing projecting forward from the transfer case to engage RWD? Or is RWD permanently engaged?

I'm guessing there could be; the manual isn't too clear to me. If the red lever is in neutral does that mean no drive to front or rear?

Either way, I have to remove that forward casing to investigate the rear output shaft. That seems do-able with everything in-situ. I don't think the transfer case has to come out but does the intermediate gear need to come out of the transfer case 1st?

Just as well I modified the rear cross member to detach, hey?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-lan...rted-bolt.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by geodon

If the red lever is in neutral does that mean no drive to front or rear?

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Yes.

The HoHars had an issue where the circlip that holds the high range gear on the output shaft had lost it's ears. This caused the same symptoms you are describing. Makes it quite difficult to get the shaft out too :). Cheap fix though.

TimJ

Sounds like items no. 64 & 63 on page 158?

https://docs.google.com/folderview?i...e_web&hl=en_US

You've got a Pinzgauer?? Respect, mein herr! After a 15 year obsession (1980-1995) I finished a Typ 87 Kubelwagen (ex Waffen-SS) & Typ 166 Schwimmwagen (ex Wehrmacht). Both gone now.