No drive on Hi Ratio RWD

I have had a look at the bits you point out, and I cannot see how they could get front wheel drive but not rear wheel drive - front wheel drive cannot work unless the output shaft is powered so that the front wheel drive dog in the forward extension housing can engage it, but this output shaft has the rear output flange splined onto it, so if the front is powered, then that rear flange must turn unless the shaft is broken (or the splines stripped).

As I said, pull the bottom cover off, it is only about ten nuts, and it should be clear what the problem is.

John

Blown rear axle or its not engaging the high range gear set.

I've seen one case of the output flange having striped it's slpines but that wasn't on a landy tcase.

There is a "balancing pivot" that can cause these symptoms but most times the fault is caused by the rods becoming gunned up. Sometimes it's fixable by removing the floor lye and manipulating everthibg that you can uncover.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

---- As I said, pull the bottom cover off, it is only about ten nuts, and it should be clear what the problem is.

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It is highly unlikely that the output shaft has snapped inside the transfer box, but to produce those symptoms it would have to break inside in front of the bearing closest to the handbrake assembly.

To test the condition of the halfshafts, just jack one wheel up, with the handbrake on, try to turn the jacked up wheel and if the wheel spins freely then a half shaft has snapped.
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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

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To test the condition of the halfshafts, just jack one wheel up, with the handbrake on, try to turn the jacked up wheel and if the wheel spins freely then a half shaft has snapped.
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See post #11!

John

After the first two I used to carry a spare:( If you release the hand brake you can usually pick up some movement if I remember correctly

AM

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

See post #11!

John

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:oops2: Sorry!

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You can easily confirm that the problem is in the rear axle - chock the front wheels, jack up one rear wheel with the handbrake on. If the wheel is free to rotate you have a broken axle or a broken diff (either is possible - the last time I had this it was the diff).

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

I have had a look at the bits you point out, and I cannot see how they could get front wheel drive but not rear wheel drive - front wheel drive cannot work unless the output shaft is powered so that the front wheel drive dog in the forward extension housing can engage it, but this output shaft has the rear output flange splined onto it, so if the front is powered, then that rear flange must turn unless the shaft is broken (or the splines stripped).

As I said, pull the bottom cover off, it is only about ten nuts, and it should be clear what the problem is.

John

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Hi John,

I can't work out the reason why either looking at the diagrams and thinking about how the things work from the ones I have pulled apart. However that was the symptoms and the solution. Putting the vehicle in 4wd (pushing the yellow lever down) was enough to get it moving and the only thing we had to fix was putting a new circlip in. So the act of engaging the front output may move something into place but you are right in that that should then drive the rear as well. Hmm... need to think about this more.

Geodon,

The Pinz is great though at the moment it is just about finished being repaired after I put it on it's side while playing up at LandCruiser Mountain Park. Should look nice again though soon :). Having been to a few of the ex military get togethers with the Pinz I have seen a few Kubelwagens, very cool too, is a Schwimmwagen an amphibious one?

Cheers,

TimJ.

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Originally Posted by Timj

Hi John,

I can't work out the reason why either looking at the diagrams and thinking about how the things work from the ones I have pulled apart. However that was the symptoms and the solution. Putting the vehicle in 4wd (pushing the yellow lever down) was enough to get it moving and the only thing we had to fix was putting a new circlip in. So the act of engaging the front output may move something into place but you are right in that that should then drive the rear as well. Hmm... need to think about this more.
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Cheers,

TimJ.

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I can see how if the output shaft is free to move forward enough that the high range dog cannot engage, then engaging the front drive dog would stop it from moving forward. But drive would be to both front and rear. The most likely reason for this movement is that the front bearing has failed, but could be the retaining circlip on that bearing being dislodged. Probably also a secondary problem such as general wear on the selector or possibly the fork loose on its shaft, maybe burred teeth on the dog.

John

John

I played musical chairs with the fleet getting the LR in the workshop & suffered the motoring equivalent of Erectile Dysfunction: I got IN the MGA but couldn't get OUT! My arthritic R knee is chronic ATM.


Another embarrassment: I took the sump off the TC & started up in 4WD expecting to see a break but all were spinning OK & the rear propshaft was turning!? (rear wheels stationary). Obviously a half-shaft BUT I'm sure that the 1st time I jacked it up & ran it in gear & 4WD the rear propshaft was NOT turning.


Is it possible to select front wheel drive only?? Red lever neutral, yellow knob pushed down?


Timj, yes the schwimm was an amphibian & I had it in the Murray pre-resto. That's me at the wheel about 1980- I had no trouble exiting MG's back then. We are looking at the floor wondering where the water was coming from! It was damn rusty! It had been converted to RHD for NSW rego. Once restored, it was so valuable I wasn't game to do it again. The insurance company wouldn't wear it!!

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Originally Posted by geodon

Is it possible to select front wheel drive only?? Red lever neutral, yellow knob pushed down?
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No, if you do that the front and rear propshafts will be locked together, but there will be no drive to either, as the low range gear will be out of mesh and the high range dog is disengaged.

John