What to use from a series 3

**Steve in Cairns** · 4th January 2015, 03:31 PM

I have just got hold of a series 3 to use as a downer car for Peggy. I will be using the rear tub, seat box and a number of other smaller bits. My question, is what are the larger components should I use? Thinking of.
Rear axle.
Rear end of the chasey (looks more substantial and has a tow ball)
Gear box
Any thing else you can think of.

Thanks to you all.

**grey_ghost** · 4th January 2015, 03:52 PM

Hi Steve,

Without knowing the state of Peggy - it's a bit hard to give advice on, but my suggestion would be (based on finding rust in my own projects):

Door Tops
Door Bottoms
Radiator?
Steering Box?
Radiator Panel?
Roof?
Windscreen
Steering Wheel
Dash Panel
Bonnet (or at least the frame for the bonnet)

Cheers,
Tom.

**Steve in Cairns** · 4th January 2015, 04:04 PM

Peggy is a bit of a state to look at but underneath she seems quite good. At the moment I am intending on using quite a few of the body panels from the 3 as she has a lot missing, and want to keep the metal dash. What mechanically should I use to "upgrade" Peggy ?

Cheers.
Steve.

**The ho har's** · 4th January 2015, 04:19 PM

Series 2 gearbox's are stronger than series III though, SIII are not crash boxes like S2. So I would swap the gearbox over. Has the S3 got a brake Booster? If so that might useful, you will however have to take the whole pedal assembly out to swap over, they are different. Yes keep the metal firewall as long as it isn't too rusty in the foot wells. Nearly everything can be swapped over, about the only difference is the hinges and firewall.

Mrs hh

**Steve in Cairns** · 6th January 2015, 07:42 PM

After completing a bit more research I am currently thinking:

Definite
Rear chassis
Gear box (do I just change the gearbox or the 4wd and hand break unit? And do I have to alter the series 2a chassis much?)
Break pedal/booster/cylinder
Rear tub and roof
Doors, if I can use the original hinges

Possibles
Rear end of the chassis
Steering box.

Have I missed anything obvious???

Cheers
Steve.

**JDNSW** · 7th January 2015, 07:11 AM

Originally Posted by Steve in Cairns

After completing a bit more research I am currently thinking:

Definite
Rear chassis

Watch the legal implications. The rear chassis includes the stamped chassis number. If you include this, it becomes a Series 3 and you cannot retain the metal dash.

Gear box (do I just change the gearbox or the 4wd and hand break unit? And do I have to alter the series 2a chassis much?)

The handbrake linkage bracket on the chassis will be different, otherwise no problems.

Break pedal/booster/cylinder

If it is dual circuit on the S3, you need to use the Series 3 mudguard or modify the Series 2 one to accommodate the extra length.

Rear tub and roof

No issues

Doors, if I can use the original hinges

Only problem is check strap arrangement is different, easy to modify.

Possibles
Rear end of the chassis
Steering box.

Check the steering column differences - the Series 3 column is designed to be enclosed, and there may be differences that make it untidy. Especially if the S3 has the steering lock.

Have I missed anything obvious???

Cheers
Steve.

Hope this helps.

John

**Steve in Cairns** · 8th January 2015, 08:22 PM

Thanks John

With the Sails hey axle, is it a simpl straight swap and is it worth it?

Cheers
Steve.

**JDNSW** · 8th January 2015, 08:55 PM

Originally Posted by Steve in Cairns

Thanks John

With the Sails hey axle, is it a simpl straight swap and is it worth it?

Cheers
Steve.

The Salisbury axle plus tailshaft is a bolt in replacement for the Rover axle plus tailshaft. The Salisbury axle is virtually unbreakable, where the Rover one definitely is not. Having said that, in twenty years I have only broken one diff, no axles with the Rover diff in my 2a.

The downside of the Salisbury is lower ground clearance and higher unsprung weight. Whether it is worth it, depends on what you are using the vehicle for, and how good a driver you are. I have retained the Rover axle, despite having a Salisbury available, partly because I have a spare NOS.

A couple of points to watch - the Salisbury will have 16mm wheel studs, where the 2a should be 9/16" BSF. You really do not want to have different wheel nuts front and back. Drive flanges on the front of Salisbury equipped Landrovers are 24 spline, Rover ones 9 spline. Hubs are, however, interchangeable, or you could fit the front axle as well. If your donor has the wider "six cylinder" front brakes, these are worth fitting. Another point to watch is that late Series 3 had different wheel bearings/hubs/stub axles.

Although the steering linkages are interchangeable, note that Series 3 and Series 2a tie rod ends and linkage tubes are not interchangeable except as ends plus tube - 2a has the clamping on an unthreaded section, 3 on the threads, and the combination of the two (either way) is unsafe (clamping is not secure and the tie rod end is likely to eventually disconnect either by unscrewing or wearing out the thread due to movement). Many people are not aware of this, so it is worth making sure you do not already have a mix!

John

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