Thread: Selectro free wheeling hubs

Originally Posted by S3ute

John,

Yes you are correct that they have arrows on the outside to mark engaged and free, but for the hubs I was referring to the inner mechanism (I probably incorrectly called it a ring gear - in the AVMs there is a toothed ring held laterally by springs) that locks the freewheeling outer hub to the driven inner axle bearing frequently doesn't immediately engage until the teeth actually line up. This is the quarter turn I suppose.

On the Toyotas it was quite common to turn the mechanisms and line the arrows up - but the inners and outers didn't necessarily immediately lock. Once the hub and wheel starts to rotate they generally do - hence the click which is quite audible. This is fine on a gravel road where you use the 4wd for stability, but in a hilly situation where you might stop, engage the locks and them immediately power off in low range there is the chance to strip the engaging mechanism and/or overload the rear axles.

That was the theory anyway.... Never found out.

Cheers,

The Husky hubs I mention above would be likely to fail in the scenario you suggest, as they would not engage until the keyways lined up. It sound as if the hubs you describe would work like the Warn ones I am familiar with but with spring loaded engagement, which would have the effect you describe. Perhaps a different model Warn, with the spring loading intended to solve the problem I mentioned where it would not engage.

John

Those alloy Selectro units are the only ones I don't like - the outer cap fastenings are too fragile. I have only one set of those where the main housing is cast iron but I don't know if that solves the problem.

At the moment I much prefer the AVM units (similar to Warns and later Selectros). I've put a set of Fairey units on my Series 3 trayback so I can get a bit of experience with them. I have one set of MAP hubs on a S2A 6cyl I got from 'Marko66' but for the foreseeable future I can't get any experience with them. The English market seems to like them though.

I do notice just a little extra drag and steering reaction when I have them in, but it's not much of anything.

Gday James,

Did you manage to find a replacement O-rings for your hubs. I went through the same drama with leaking hubs. I took my whole hub down to a specialist seal place in Sydney and got it measured up. I ask asked for for a slightly thicker seal seal and they gave me a 63x2mm o-ring. They are a perfect fit, very snug. Dirt cheap too about $6 for 4. Time will time how well they work.

Hi If you measure the ID of the O ring and the width of the O ring groove with your vernier the local repco or bearing service place will be able to help. If you get the right O ring it should not be a problem. You should not need to have them made , the hub maker will normally select an an O ring from the standard series of O rings. In this case probably the "imperial sizes".

[ame]http://www.fluidseals.com.au/files/IMPERIAL%20O%20RING%20SIZES%20BS1806%20AS568A.pdf[/ame]

This link will give you a free chart.
The O ring section should be a little bit less than the width of the groove , so the two surfaces can clamp metal to metal and the o ring can crush into the groove. Example if the o ring groove is 1/8" wide and you put a 3 mm section metric O ring in the o ring will stand proud by about 0.25 mm, it should work well. I little bit of grease on the O rings is good, if desperate some RTV Blue will guarantee a seal. good luck.