Thread: JB's 1963 2A Build

Look forward to following your resto JB,

I got a lot of my inspiration from reading the restos grey ghost and debruiser are doing.

Don forget to post pics 😃

Hmm, you've got a slight head start on me (I've yet to get Wombat home). However, shall we make it a race? Don't worry, you'll win.

Like you, I'm not sure of what level to do her to though you're starting with a better base - for example, I've no choice but to repaint her and the engine head is sitting loose on the block so engine rebuild here I come. Decisions will be made as I get to them ... starting with a bare chassis.

I love those trolleys you've got the wheels on, should provide a lot more space to work on her. What are they worth?

Originally Posted by crackers

Hmm, you've got a slight head start on me (I've yet to get Wombat home). However, shall we make it a race? Don't worry, you'll win.

Like you, I'm not sure of what level to do her to though you're starting with a better base - for example, I've no choice but to repaint her and the engine head is sitting loose on the block so engine rebuild here I come. Decisions will be made as I get to them ... starting with a bare chassis.

I love those trolleys you've got the wheels on, should provide a lot more space to work on her. What are they worth?

Thanks Crackers, going to try to manage the build so I ensure I enjoy it, as I am a very clinical person who wants a certain result, however I don't necessarily have the experience to achieve it. So I need to be patient rather than be disappointed with the end result.

The trolley's I got from repco for $160 I think for the 4. Due to my garage I need to make sure the car is movable, however I would recommend if you have the extra coin to get the more expensive jack style / race car ones as it takes a bit to still move it, they are great once you have the wheels turned into the right direction, so still worth it compared to not being able to shift the car.

Cheers
JB

I think you'll love them JB. For a few years there, I was building two boats, a 14 footer and a 16 footer in my shed, both at the same time with only enough room to work on one side of a boat and barely enough room to get around the end. I got around that with coasters on the building frame and just moved the things as needed. It's possibly a bad sign but I sold both boats before finishing them. What killed the projects was the need to start from nothing with no use from them until completion. For this reason, I'm wary of taking Wombat back to a series of boxes of parts and then starting a rebuild, you need to be able to play as you work through the project even if it's just sitting in the driver's seat and making brrmmm brrmmm noises.

When I was in the Sydney MG Car Club, we had a 'garage visit' to a bloke who had restored a succession of T series MGs. Someone asked him how he managed to keep the projects going and how he managed to do so many. His answer? Do something every night, even if it's just cleaning a greasy bolt, wiping something down or pulling something off the car.

Some years ago now, I rebuilt an MGB and converted her to RHD. One of my best moves was to get the taps and dies needed to clean up the threads of nuts, bolts and stud - I didn't buy a set, just bought them as I needed them. This meant that rather than struggling with nasty threads, they were always clean and fresh and reassembly was a breeze. I'll be doing that again.

Looking forward to your resto! Just post plenty of pics!
Good luck!

If you keep an eye on Gumtree and the for sale section here you will find that 'projects' come up where someone has stripped the car down to the last nut & bolt then lost momentum.
Several years later it comes up for sale but it will take someone many trips with a trailer to collect because it's in hundreds of pieces in dozens of boxes.

I am often working outside on Land Rovers so I tend to work on one corner at a time (for brakes, hub seals etc.) then maybe steering then the engine etc.
If you do need to move it on, or just to a new location, in a hurry there isn't much needed to get it rolling.

Then you need to consider how much work you want to do on it.
Conservation vs. Restoration

Using the original nuts & bolts is great but if they are rusted you need de-rust them & get them plated otherwise they will rust again very quickly.

My Series I was made safe. Basically a brake overhaul, axle seals, ball joint seals, UJ's replaced, a few repairs to the bodywork, overhaul kit through the carby and a quick service. It got to Cooma & back under it's own power and with only a few running repairs is still operational.
1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)

Each to their own.


Colin

Guys is this tank split, or partial seam separation like this normal?

Originally Posted by JayBee75

Guys is this tank split, or partial seam separation like this normal?

The skid plate had come unsoldered from the tank. In itself, very common, and not a big drama. But getting water and grit in between the layers is likely to result in a leaking tank either from rust or rubbing or both. Need to be sure it has not already happened.

Ideally the tank would be unsoldered from the skid plate, checked for holes or damage, and resoldered. This would involve removing the tank, removing all petrol vapour from it, and a big blow lamp or or big tip on your oxy and a lot of gas. I reattached mine with silicone rubber, and have had no problems in the twelve years or so since.

John