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Thread: Convert Petrol to Diesel

  1. #11
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    The 2.25D head can be converted to a petrol head.

    I dont know if it was ever done with a landover engine but I do recall an old style stantionary engine that had a large port in the head that you could crew in a precombution chamber with an injector in it to run it on diesel (obviously you needed to have the injector pump fitted a well or you could screw in a blanking plug and run it just on petrol.

    you didnt have a choice on starting it, it had to have the carby and spark plug to get it started and wamed up then flicked it over to kero/diesel. one of the adjustments for the quality of fuel was setting the depth of the blanking plug or the precombution chamber depth to raise or lower the compression.

    From memory chnge over was a case of getting it back to just on idle, turning off the petrol supply until the engine began topick up revs as the fuel mix leaned out, and then flicking a lever on the injector pump which enganged tbe injector pump and then turned off the spark.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #12
    cafe latte Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    The 2.25D head can be converted to a petrol head.

    I dont know if it was ever done with a landover engine but I do recall an old style stantionary engine that had a large port in the head that you could crew in a precombution chamber with an injector in it to run it on diesel (obviously you needed to have the injector pump fitted a well or you could screw in a blanking plug and run it just on petrol.

    you didnt have a choice on starting it, it had to have the carby and spark plug to get it started and wamed up then flicked it over to kero/diesel. one of the adjustments for the quality of fuel was setting the depth of the blanking plug or the precombution chamber depth to raise or lower the compression.

    From memory chnge over was a case of getting it back to just on idle, turning off the petrol supply until the engine began topick up revs as the fuel mix leaned out, and then flicking a lever on the injector pump which enganged tbe injector pump and then turned off the spark.
    I have a couple of dozers, a big D7 which I use on the farm and a little cat22 which is a bit of fun. The cat 22 is a 1926 model and it runs on both Petrol and power Kero (or petrol and diesel mix). You can run it on just petrol but swapping a warmer round on the carb, but most ran them on petrol and diesel mix. You need though to start her on petrol till she warms up then flick over to the petrol and diesel mix. No injectors though it just runs through the carby and it runs really well on it too.
    The article I read re the diesel Land rovers was going on about some being easily converted ie injector pump and dizzy and spark plugs not removing the heads. I cant imagine how they could have got round the problem of the precombustion chambers.. I cant see how it could have worked but there was something on the net a while back.
    Chris

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Themadmob View Post
    What do you do to have so many engines ?
    1 x I bought a diesel for a project then decided not to use
    3 x parts cars
    1 x spare engine that came with a project
    1 x engine from my current project
    1 x can't remember where that came from but must have got it with a car or something.....

    Most are gone now. Although I think I might still have a diesel that needs a fair bit of work.... could be a 5 bearing petrol there too.... not sure...

  4. #14
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    If I remember correctly the SIII 2 1/4" were diesel blocks, in SII and SIIa the blocks were slightly different.

    There are also differences in the cranks, and importantly the pistons have to be changed.

    The best engine to use would be one of the very late SIII 2.3 engines with the 5 bearing crank.

    Otherwise I know someone who is about to remove a 2.5 NA diesel from a 1989 Defender 90 when it is replaced with a turbo diesel. Should fit straight into a series 4 cylinder chassis.

    If you're going to be doing high altitude work (where is that in Australia? ) a turbo diesel would be the preferred option.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by cafe latte View Post
    I have a couple of dozers, a big D7 which I use on the farm and a little cat22 which is a bit of fun. The cat 22 is a 1926 model and it runs on both Petrol and power Kero (or petrol and diesel mix). You can run it on just petrol but swapping a warmer round on the carb, but most ran them on petrol and diesel mix. You need though to start her on petrol till she warms up then flick over to the petrol and diesel mix. No injectors though it just runs through the carby and it runs really well on it too.
    The article I read re the diesel Land rovers was going on about some being easily converted ie injector pump and dizzy and spark plugs not removing the heads. I cant imagine how they could have got round the problem of the precombustion chambers.. I cant see how it could have worked but there was something on the net a while back.
    Chris
    Yep vaporisor diehsel, AKA the deisel with a carby. WOn a few carto of beer from them with yong bloke who dot know any better
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #16
    cafe latte Guest
    Yes, the exhaust gases are diverted round the carby to heat it up, when it is hot enough it will run on the diesel and petrol mix and you switch over, it works very well indeed. I should sell my toy really as it is quite rare now and I have no use for it, but it is so much fun
    Chris

  7. #17
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    Thanks for your help guys ... The high altitude areas will be in Russia ... We are taking a few landrovers to the UK and overland to Magadan

  8. #18
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    Hi Themadmob.

    Ok, I'll throw a different take own his conversation... The 2.286 petrol is an underrated engine that in the right hands can have as much get up and go as a Rover V8. Now, the diesel you are talking about building up using a petrol block etc has to be one of the most dated, sluggish and inefficient lumps Land Rover made. I ran one years ago and the novelty wore off very quickly. Do not waste your time and funds building up an old indirect injection 2.286 diesel when you can buy a 200 Tdi and basically bolt it straight in place of your petrol. The bell housing is the same pattern (bolt holes need to be enlarged to M10), the metal mounts need taking off your petrol and fitting to the Tdi. Use the Tdi bolts as they are metric. Replace the petrol mount with Series 3 diesel mounts. (Same size but stronger). Use the thermostat housing off the petrol.. but use the Tdi's metric bolts. You will have to remove the battery tray and relocate the battery as the fuel injection pump sits there. The original rad will cope fine IF it is in good condition and clean. A bit of inginuity will have a fan in he right place and working. Electric fan is the easy option. An intercooler will need rigging up somewhere. There's a few other things that need modifying. A cut down Ser 3 6 cyl LWB exhaust system gives you the bore you need and enough parts to alow modification. The rear section should be able to be fitted up relatively simply. You will then have a fuel efficient vehicle that you can get parts for. If you are worried about too much power, get the pump turned down and it'll be even better on fuel. Good luck!
    1995 Mercedes 1222A 4x4
    1969 (Now know! Thanks Diana!!) Ser 2 Tdi SWB

    1991 VW Citi Golf Cti (soon to be Tdi)

    'When there's smoke, there's plenty of poke!!'
    'The more the smoke, the more the poke!!'

  9. #19
    cafe latte Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Sitec View Post
    Hi Themadmob.

    Ok, I'll throw a different take own his conversation... The 2.286 petrol is an underrated engine that in the right hands can have as much get up and go as a Rover V8. Now, the diesel you are talking about building up using a petrol block etc has to be one of the most dated, sluggish and inefficient lumps Land Rover made. I ran one years ago and the novelty wore off very quickly. Do not waste your time and funds building up an old indirect injection 2.286 diesel when you can buy a 200 Tdi and basically bolt it straight in place of your petrol. The bell housing is the same pattern (bolt holes need to be enlarged to M10), the metal mounts need taking off your petrol and fitting to the Tdi. Use the Tdi bolts as they are metric. Replace the petrol mount with Series 3 diesel mounts. (Same size but stronger). Use the thermostat housing off the petrol.. but use the Tdi's metric bolts. You will have to remove the battery tray and relocate the battery as the fuel injection pump sits there. The original rad will cope fine IF it is in good condition and clean. A bit of inginuity will have a fan in he right place and working. Electric fan is the easy option. An intercooler will need rigging up somewhere. There's a few other things that need modifying. A cut down Ser 3 6 cyl LWB exhaust system gives you the bore you need and enough parts to alow modification. The rear section should be able to be fitted up relatively simply. You will then have a fuel efficient vehicle that you can get parts for. If you are worried about too much power, get the pump turned down and it'll be even better on fuel. Good luck!
    I swapped out a good series petrol for a good series diesel, but my needs where rather specific. I have a farm and the series 3 landy was never going to leave the farm it just chugs around my property. The petrol was fine, but I get diesel delivered (4,000 liters at a time) not petrol so it was a pain in the butt every time I needed to refill with petrol. Also crossing the creek a few times wet the dizzy and resulted in me stalling and having to walk back to the house, the last time it happened it was in monsoonal rain which was when I decided to swap the engine..
    On the farm the 2.25 diesel is great, it would climb a wall, but I hardly ever get it into fourth gear. I cant imagine driving it on the road you would need to be not in a hurry.
    Saying that, if I wanted a work truck just to go into town with to carry my tools for my rentals which is only a 10 minute drive the old series diesel would be fine, but if you want to go on a motorway forget it for this get a 200tdi or stick with the petrol.
    Chris

  10. #20
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    All these decisions ... You guys arnt helping :-) .... :-) ... :-) okay I have ruled out the diesel after your advise Chris as we are going to do a 24000 km trip through Asia and Europe ... So do I restore the 1960 S2 Petrol ....... Which is part of the challenge I want to achieve .... Old engine doing 24000 km's ..... Or ..... Go 200TDI ???????????

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