Thread: Big Bird has arrived.

As gromit says, it is a voltage stabiliser that provides 10v (average, actually switches on and off) for the temperature and fuel gauges.

Reversing lights were optional equipment on Series 2a Landrovers, and were rarely, if ever, fitted until they became mandated by ADRs (during S3 production). A few were retrofitted later, rarely with the factory optional equipment. The reverse light switch is a push switch mounted in a hole on the back upright of the bracket that holds the gear lever ball mount. There may be a hole for it on your bracket, but most likely not.

John

Hi all,
I am having a great time fiddling with the giant canary.
Lots done today, plenty more to do.

Whilst underneath and gazing into the abyss I spotted this.
There is a 'Fuel Pump' switch on the dash, which perplexed me but this is it.
It is currently de-tached as only the drivers side tank is plumbed in.
What was the purpose of this little pump? Is it an Army fit? or later. Would it be used to relay the passenger side fuel to the drivers tank?

The plan is to take the rusted passenger tank out and get it repaired eventually.


Thanks as always.

Dave

Without actually seeing the vehicle, it has been fitted by a previous owner, possibly the fuel changeover switch (brass tap fitted to the seatbox RHS near handbrake lever) was faulty and they had plumbed in that pump to take fuel from ? the LHS tank, or did it have another aux tank fitted elsewhere??, cheers Dennis

Army setup was a manual changeover tap on the front of the seat box, and there was also a changeover switch to swap the gauge between tanks.

John

Thanks guys,
I think I'll temporarily remove the passenger side tank until after I get her passed for a RWC. And seeing as I will on,y be putting around town and not going to far I will be able to survive on one tank for a fair while.

Still chipping away, or keeps getting in the way of my progress though.

I appear to have a fairly substantial oil leak from the 'hand brake drum' . Well thats where the drip falls from, the nice clean gear oil I replaced in the gearbox and transfer case.
I assume its coming from the transfer case output shaft area.
Is the seal shown in a parts drawing easy to replace? Is it a case of just remove the handbrake components, flange etc and work my way back to the seal?

This little leak is a bit too much for the rego man i think.

Thanks team.

Dave

Originally Posted by SuperChad

.........

I appear to have a fairly substantial oil leak from the 'hand brake drum' . Well thats where the drip falls from, the nice clean gear oil I replaced in the gearbox and transfer case.
I assume its coming from the transfer case output shaft area.
Is the seal shown in a parts drawing easy to replace? Is it a case of just remove the handbrake components, flange etc and work my way back to the seal?

This little leak is a bit too much for the rego man i think.

Thanks team.

Dave

More or less - a workshop manual will help, but I can't think of any real problems that will arise. However, the seal failure may have been caused in part by lack of preload on the output bearings and/or a groove in the sealing surface on the output flange.

A couple of perhaps obvious points, which may not be that obvious if you haven't done it before.

1. First step, drain the T/C, or you'll have a lot more oil on the shed floor!

2. The nuts holding the handbrake drum are on captive bolts - they will feel as if you might lose them, but you won't - obvious once you get the drum off. Or you can remove the drum with the output flange after removing the big nut in the middle.

3. slack off the brake adjuster.

John

With the handbrake off and gearbox in neutral, can you wobble the handbrake drum at all? If you can, you have insufficient preload on the transfer case bearings. Adjust this first when you have the back of the transfer case apart.

Aaron

Hi all,

Moving along and still having fun!

I've been spending some time trying to get the timing sorted. Its running pretty rough. New plugs, points, rotor, cap. Carby has been stripped down and cleaned out.
Today I put the timing light on it and it was out a bit. I undid the clamp bolt etc on the distributor but it wouldn't move. After rotating the engine so the rotor button is pointing at No.1 cylinder as per the book I undid the 3 bolts in the triangle plate and out it came.
Seized badly I pulled it all don, cleaned, bit of lube and reassembled.

Problem is when I put the distributor back in place it does not seem to go in 'deep' enough to engage the drive dog. I bolt it all down and can still turn the rotor by hand!.
Not sure what going on here. I followed the instructions in the manual, I can't work out whats not happening here.

Any ideas?

thanks
Dave