and then when you over do it you just araldite/devcon/solder/braize/weld/ignore the crack.
honestly, the lack of research and the poor quality of facts that get presented in this place sometimes....
when you strip the thread you back of 1/4 of a turn, you back of half a turn after it breaks.
in one of the appendixes for the series manual there should be a look up chart that gives default torques for various bolt sizes
[ame="http://www.boltmasters.com.au/webfiles/boltmastersau/files/boltmasters_pty_ltd_recommended_assembly_torques.p df"]This is a very comprehensive list from bolt masters[/ame]
theres lots of other out there on the internet but remember to use the correct chart for the bolt type...
in a series you can be facing
metric (fine standard and course thread)
imperial (UNC, UNF,)
witworth (BSF and BSW)
BS Conduit
BS Pipe
BS Pipe, tapered
BS electrical
PBMRWFW (Previous Butcher Maintainers Random Whatever Fitted Works) and
UNSRHGL (UNknown Stripped and Rounded Head, Good luck)
Yes, all of them can legitimately be on the engine. and NO, BS does not stand for the expletive you use when you proclaim "THIS IS ..."after you work out what you thought should have been one type of fixing isnt and your spanner doesnt fit properly, it means British Standard..
I suggest a good set of one size fits all spanners.(no, no I do not, that was sarcasm, SARCASM people If I hear of you doing that expect to be doubley accused of needing the blue and white apron firstly for not knowing which thread you were up against and second for resorting to the hack tools)




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(no, no I do not, that was sarcasm, SARCASM people If I hear of you doing that expect to be doubley accused of needing the blue and white apron firstly for not knowing which thread you were up against and second for resorting to the hack tools)

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