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Thread: Removing rusty/stuck core/Welch cup plugs

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by crackers View Post
    It's a bit like knowing how tight to do up a nut... which is to do it up until it strips then back off a half turn
    At least rave has torque settings, my series workshop manual is fairly light on them

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shakey View Post
    Thanks, I'm rapidly learning you can generally hit things a lot harder than I think!
    and then when you over do it you just araldite/devcon/solder/braize/weld/ignore the crack.

    Quote Originally Posted by crackers View Post
    It's a bit like knowing how tight to do up a nut... which is to do it up until it strips then back off a half turn

    honestly, the lack of research and the poor quality of facts that get presented in this place sometimes....

    when you strip the thread you back of 1/4 of a turn, you back of half a turn after it breaks.


    in one of the appendixes for the series manual there should be a look up chart that gives default torques for various bolt sizes

    [ame="http://www.boltmasters.com.au/webfiles/boltmastersau/files/boltmasters_pty_ltd_recommended_assembly_torques.p df"]This is a very comprehensive list from bolt masters[/ame]

    theres lots of other out there on the internet but remember to use the correct chart for the bolt type...

    in a series you can be facing

    metric (fine standard and course thread)
    imperial (UNC, UNF,)
    witworth (BSF and BSW)
    BS Conduit
    BS Pipe
    BS Pipe, tapered
    BS electrical
    PBMRWFW (Previous Butcher Maintainers Random Whatever Fitted Works) and
    UNSRHGL (UNknown Stripped and Rounded Head, Good luck)

    Yes, all of them can legitimately be on the engine. and NO, BS does not stand for the expletive you use when you proclaim "THIS IS ..."after you work out what you thought should have been one type of fixing isnt and your spanner doesnt fit properly, it means British Standard..

    I suggest a good set of one size fits all spanners. (no, no I do not, that was sarcasm, SARCASM people If I hear of you doing that expect to be doubley accused of needing the blue and white apron firstly for not knowing which thread you were up against and second for resorting to the hack tools)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    in a series you can be facing

    metric (fine standard and course thread)
    imperial (UNC, UNF,)
    witworth (BSF and BSW)
    BS Conduit
    BS Pipe
    BS Pipe, tapered
    BS electrical
    PBMRWFW (Previous Butcher Maintainers Random Whatever Fitted Works) and
    UNSRHGL (UNknown Stripped and Rounded Head, Good luck)[/SIZE]
    You left out BA (British Association) and sometimes even RLT.

    Aaron

  4. #14
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    So cups are out, is the threaded plug at the back a normal thread, can't shift it at the moment and just wanted to check it wasn't a reversed thread (can't see why it would be).

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shakey View Post
    So cups are out, is the threaded plug at the back a normal thread, can't shift it at the moment and just wanted to check it wasn't a reversed thread (can't see why it would be).

    The one on the real left of the engine block, that resembles the small bung out of an old 44 gallon drum! It was for the "arctic heater" that could be fitted on vehicles sent to extremely cold climates.
    It is right hand thread but may need some encouraging words to help shift it!
    Good Luck!
    Cheers, Mick.
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  6. #16
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    you're going to resort to every trick in the book to get that one then when you hit the end of the book you're going to start thinking outside the square.

    Ive drilled and dremeled and filed and hammerd and heated and oxied and die grinded,cut at, chiseled, pin punched generally abused with very very very big hammers drilled to size and then picked the remnents out with a scribe then cut new threads and then I've come across some properly hard to get out ones.

    take your current definition of "Indescribably difficult" and be prepared to have it redefined.

    you're more likely to get a 4 page center spread article published in 4wd action proclaiming that, no you dont really need to have suspension lifts, big tires, lockers, the worlds most expensive air compressor, or anything to much more than a stock series to have a good time on a cape trip.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    The one on the real left of the engine block, that resembles the small bung out of an old 44 gallon drum! It was for the "arctic heater" that could be fitted on vehicles sent to extremely cold climates.
    It is right hand thread but may need some encouraging words to help shift it!
    Good Luck!
    Cheers, Mick.
    Mick, do you mean this one?

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  8. #18
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    thats the one and its partner... which from memory is up on the head at the front.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post

    take your current definition of "Indescribably difficult" and be prepared to have it redefined.
    Maybe I should just leave it in and not replace it, don't think it actually leaks...

  10. #20
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    oh, it will...

    while you have the ability to get at it, get it out and replace it with a brass or copper fitting of the same size. seat it in with thread tape, loctite 567 or permatex #3. much easier to get out later and if it strips it will respond better to drilling and extractor tools.

    once the plug you have corrodes through and leaks the definition of "indescribably difficult" raises exponentially.

    dont forget the plugs in the head.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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