Thread: Handbrake

Yesterday I replaced the handbrake shoes on the 2a, having recently replaced the seal that had leaked oil onto them (just cleaned up the shoes then, and ordered new ones). Degreasing the brake shoes is quite effective when talking about the handbrake, as it never gets hot enough to burn the oil, unless you have it dragging.

Since I had recently had everything apart to replace the seal it was going to be a quick, simple job, no frozen nuts, everything clean, I know what I am doing. Yeah! Right!

Brake drum came off without any issues, unlike last time. I figured it should be possible to replace the shoes without removing anything else. The brake springs are weak enough that it is possible (just) to lift the shoes off the expander and adjuster. What happens then is that the lower plunger on the adjuster falls out (it missed my mouth, but only just).

What was not immediately apparent is that while struggling to free the shoes, I had knocked off the clip that retains the expander plungers, and the bottom one and its roller had fallen out. When the little roller hits the concrete it rolls - and the spring clip bounces! Lost about half an hour looking, and finally found both, surprising how far the clip went.

Cleaned up behind the shoes. Since the old ones came off, the new ones ought to go on. Shouldn't be a problem, hook the springs on the top shoe, put these in place and hook up the bottom ones. Hook up one spring to the bottom shoe and while doing that the other one falls off. Then the first one falls off while hooking the second one up. And the adjuster plunger falls out again. Eventually I realised that the spring would not go between the output flange and the expander, and I would have to remove the output flange, something I wanted to avoid, as it would mean draining the transfer case.

It also means removing both ends of the prop shaft, as you can't get it clear enough just undoing the front.

Got all that done (remember how hard it is to get at the U-joint bolts), and decided to remove the backing plate to install the shoes on the bench.

This was straightforward, except I needed to note that while the spanners needed for the U-joint bolts and the one on the end of the output shaft are AF, all the others are Whitworth. And that the pin linking the pull rod from the expander to the bell crank is a good example of something you can see quite clearly, but getting your hands on it to undo it is another matter. I find very useful is a stubby screwdriver about an inch long for this job. Only took me about half an hour to find it.

Then simply reassemble everything, refill the transfer case, and ready to go.

Next decided to check the swivel preload, as I have been getting a bit of kick back on rough roads. LH one was low, so I removed a shim, and got it back to about right for having the seal in place (18 pounds). I was rather concerned to find signs of scuffing on the swivel pin - I don't think the steel is properly hardened. A replacement at some stage in the next few years, I think, if I can find some that I am convinced are better. These are only a few years old.

All this took me most of the day. All I have to do now is put the front wheels back on, take it off the stands, and put the tools away - and go for a road test.

John

John

I had a similar carburettor float problem years ago in a 1969 Crown.

Over a period of a few years, I had to adjust the float level a number of times as the fuel level visible in the glass window was too high.

I didn't realise the problem caused by the cumulative effect of all these adjustments. In normal driving there was no problem, but when I tried to pass a semi going up a hill, the float was already so close to the bottom of the bowl that it couldn't drop enough to supply the amount of fuel needed at full throttle.

The cause of the problem was that the foam filled plastic coated floats had been gradually absorbing petrol, causing the floats to sink lower.

New brass floats solved the problem.