Just got a 2a, (yes another 2a purchase thread!)

[Esmac]

compared to mine, that is nothing like the real thing.
mine is attached to the chassis to a welded part of the chassis that keeps the damper basically horizontal and does not block the access to the crank handle - why would land rover do that shown in your picture?
I suspect yours is a totally after market jobbie and perhaps your car did not have factory fitted.
it does puzzle me as the other end of the real installation is bolted to a bracket welded to the steering rod, not like your bolted brackets.

This steering damper is identical in every way to the one fitted to my vehicle.
Mine is a '66 SIIA 88 but who knows how may parts were added over the years and not added from the showroom.

[paulthepilot_5]

The other thing that will cause the crankhandle to foul the damper is tired engine mounts.

For most people, the steering damper is not necessary. It is only intended to protect the driver from severe kickback when hitting bad bumps with one wheel. Damping to inhibit wheel wobble or steering shake is provided by frictional damping on the top swivel bush and the steering relay. Fitting of oversize tyres may require additional damping, but it is probably questionable whether this is best supplied by an additional damper or by increasing the frictional damping , for example by increasing swivel preload or a stronger spring in the steering relay.

Dampers began to be fitted to Series Landrovers mainly in response to their fitting by competitors and the high profit margin on dealer installed extras once Rover made them available! My first three Series Landrovers did not have them, and I cannot remember the slightest suggestion that their absence was ever noticed.

John

Engine mounts on mine are cactus, so that's probably half the drama with the crank handle fouling.

Have to agree John, I drove my series 3 without a damper for about a year, can't say I noticed much of a difference when I put one on.

[paulthepilot_5]

So there is a fair bit of backlash in the rear diff, thinking of sticking the Salisbury from my series 3 into it at this stage just to speed up getting it back on the road. So the question is, am I likely to have a different ratio in the Salisbury from the s3 than the rover diff in the series 2 ?

[JDNSW]

After someof the very early 80" Series 1s, all Series Landrovers had a diff ratio of 4.7:1 except the Stage 1(V8 and Isuzu) which were 3.54:1, the same as the coil sprung 90/110/Defender.

Be aware however that a previous owner may have changed the ratio, so check!

John

[paulthepilot_5]

So ripped out the donor diff today.
Was going to use springs and all, but a stubborn rusted bolt meant the right Spring had to stay!



Poor old yellow Landy is starting to feel a bit naked!

[paulthepilot_5]

Also started reassembling my spare front axle components to swap out into the series 2

[harry]

Neat crane!

[paulthepilot_5]

Neat crane!

Yeah, beats using engine hoists and jacks

[paulthepilot_5]

So I have stripped down the Landy a fair bit more, and have found significant rust internally in the chassis that were not too obvious until I turned it upside and had a good look



Went tapping around the chassis with a hammer and found a soft spot, cut open to find this!




Also a lot of cracks around bush mounts



I have decided to not use this chassis for the moment as it requires too much work. Will be continuing the rebuild on my 1960 SII SWB chassis

[paulthepilot_5]

So to continue the rebuild I have sandblasted and repaired a few minor sections in the chassis



Will be sending off to get galvanised later in the week hopefully.

In the meantime have been busy cleaning and sandblasting components for paint









Cheers Paul